AmSpec contributor Doug Bandow mentions today the
blogs I’ve posted here recently about the trial of Khmer Rouge
jailer Kaing Guek Eav, who ran the Phnom Penh torture chamber
that was S-21, or Tuol Sleng. Doug recounts
his own visit a few years ago to the prison, and his
descriptions accurately capture the horror and despair that Tuol
Sleng — now a
museum — conveys. I’ve been twice in the last two years and
you can easily imagine what the place was like in the late 1970s:
the gritty linoleum floors; the haphazard, quick-bricked cells;
the crumbled walls; and of course the black-and-white photos
of the victims.
In contrast, yesterday I happened to be in the Washington area
for a brief family visit and decided to visit DC with my children
for the day. Our first target was the Jefferson Memorial and on
the way we passed the U.S.
Holocaust Memorial Museum, so we decided to take a brief
stroll through.
I am fairly new to the study of the genocide issue so I am in no
position to make value comparisons between the worth of one
museum over another. Both have significant contributions to make
to the education of society and both should burden visitors with
how and why questions, and with puzzlement that such evil could
exist.
But as for effectiveness in placing you at the scene of the
crimes, there is no comparison. Tuol Sleng, as minimal and as
undeveloped as you could imagine such a museum to be, overwhelms
you. I imagine the experience is similar to what you would feel
visiting Auschwitz, untainted. In contrast the U.S. Holocaust
Museum, overflowing with facts and displays, and about as
professional and slick as you can imagine, only conveys
information. It’s a modern building with modern interactive
techniques in spiffy displays which clue you in, but place you
far away from the events it covers.
Obviously you couldn’t put a Tuol Sleng in our country, and have
it have the same meaning. And the U.S. Holocaust Museum serves a
great purpose in educating those who are unable to visit the
sites of these historic horrors. But I guess my point is, in
order to understand the gravity and magnitude of the mass murder
— you have to visit the places where it happened. At least for
me, that was the case.