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The Seduction of Cognac
January 9, 2006 | 1 comment
The Great American Saloon Series
The Spirits of Erin
Fighting Irish whiskies are back.
(Page 2 of 2)
To peat or not to peat? That is the question. Some of the best-known and most sophisticated single malts of Scotland—particularly those produced in the Hebrides, off Scotland’s west coast—burn peat, ancient, partially decayed heather, moss, seaweed, and other vegetation dug from soggy bogs, to toast the malted barley prior to fermentation and distillation. That gives these whiskies—e.g., Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Bowmore, Talisker, Ardbeg—a characteristic smoky flavor. Irish whiskies, by contrast, are un-peated. Smokeless fuels are used in the kilns (Irish for ovens) instead. So there is no smokiness to Irish whiskies. (But Connemara, distilled at Kilbeggan, is a peated Irish whiskey.)
Two things to know about single malts: First, because each single malt is distilled and aged in a single location, it expresses what French winemakers call terroir, a sense of place. “Single malts tell you where they come from,” is the way one master distiller explained it to me. Second, single malts use only malted barley—barley that has germinated, sprouting roots that are rich in sugar and starch. Irish whiskies combine malted and un-malted barley in about a 40 percent to 60 percent ratio. (But Bushmills produces fine single malt Irish whiskies; Tyrconnell, distilled at Kilbeggan, is a single malt, as is the peated Connemara mentioned above.)
There also are blended Irish whiskies—a mix of spirits from barley, malted or not, and from other grains, such as wheat, corn, and rye. Similarly, there are blended scotches, both the basic varieties your father used to order “on the rocks” or with soda (anyone old enough to remember the “As long as you’re up, get me a Grant’s” ads?), and a few blends mixed with such great art and craft that they rival the best single malts. Like those single malts, they should never be put in contact with ice cubes or carbonated water. Instead, they are to be sipped neat or, better yet, with just a few drops of branch water (an expression that originally meant water taken from a fresh stream but which now indicates any very pure H2O) to open up the aromas—the way air opens up a fine wine.
Generally speaking, malt whiskies tend to have more flavor and character; grain whiskies sacrifice some flavor for smoothness. Aging whiskies longer means both more intense flavors and smoothness. The price you pay is the price you pay: The more time whiskies spend in barrels, the more expensive they will be in bottles. And remember that whiskey, unlike wine, does not age once it’s wrapped in glass.
Today, there are four working Irish distilleries—Midleton, Kilbeggan, Cooley, and Bushmills—turning out a growing number of premium whiskies. Among my favorites: the 18-year-old Jameson Limited Reserve, the Connemara peated single malt, Bushmills’ 16- and 21-year-old single malts, Redbreast, and Kilbeggan’s blended Irish whiskey.
In 2011, the most recent year for which data are available, 5 million cases (12 bottles per case) of Irish whiskey were sold, 1.7 million of them in the U.S., a 24 percent increase over the previous year. Are the Scots getting nervous? Probably not: There are more than 100 distilleries in Scotland turning out an enormous range of whiskies far too good to shoot off the heads of pretty girls without remorse. The Scots sell 90 million cases a year and control 60 percent of the global market in whiskies, compared to 3.5 percent for their colleagues across the Irish Sea. Some Scottish distilleries run seven days a week and still can’t keep up with demand. Nevertheless, a little competition from the fighting Irish may do them good.
And every sip takes me back to Belfast, circa 1978, a time of anger, strife, and terrorism. But also of long nights in dimly lit snugs, sipping whiskey, listening and learning about the ideas for which men will kill and die. Given the way the world’s conflicts have evolved since, can I be forgiven for remembering those days with fondness?
Photo: Joris (Creative Commons 2.0).
Letter to the Editor View all comments (63) | Leave a comment
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Frank Drackman| 2.8.13 @ 7:03AM
Hey Clifford Stereotype much??? And are there any Jews in Ireland? Oh wait, that Homo Child Molestor Jack will know...
And since when did TAS become GQ?? Then again maybe I've found a buyer for my 10,000 page Tome on the allures of Malt Liquor...
Frank O' Drackman
Maxwell| 2.8.13 @ 7:47AM
Frank, with all due respect, I wonder what happened to Clint the other Jew lover? And I'm sure that his buddy Jack will be along shortly.
Now, as for something to drink, I prefer Jack, either black or green label.
irish19| 2.8.13 @ 2:23PM
If Jack is from Wisconsin like he claims, it's probably Christian Brothers and a wash for him.
TLP| 2.8.13 @ 3:44PM
What a surprise that Half of the Comments are from Drunken Sailor.
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 4:55PM
Just trying to do my part and keep up the conversation.
Jack in Wi| 2.9.13 @ 8:36AM
Dreck: The cousin of 2 Jewish Lord Mayors of Dublin used to work for me.
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 2:54AM
That's nice, Jack. You still fellate Islamic terrorists every day.
Pecos Pete| 2.8.13 @ 7:41AM
Colonel Mike,with your lengthy experience with scotch (Scotch?) this is your opportunity to become a TAS contributor.
mike 3/505| 2.8.13 @ 10:04AM
Pesco my Battle Buddy! Don't know if I'll have much time to comment, as I am still heavily involved in "field research" on this subject. It looks like it may take a long, long time for me to gather all the data I'll need to draw any credible conclusions. I wouldn't want to make any hasty judgements. Heheheheh.
Regards,
Mike
Al Adab| 2.8.13 @ 11:42AM
Field research, of course. Why didn't I think of that? Oh well, where shall we meet up to compare notes?
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 12:50PM
Finally, a useful article. I like Glenfiddich.
Gr0w1er601| 2.8.13 @ 2:13PM
The Glenfiddich Solera Reserve 15-year old is sublime. I prefer it over the 40-year old Glenfiddich I sampled at the Estes Park Scottish/Irish Highland Games Scotch Whisky Tasting 8 years ago.
TLP| 2.8.13 @ 5:03PM
Yeah.
I like him, too.
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 2:56AM
Carefully check the lethal limits, Mike. And good luck on your decades long journey. :-)
tmac| 2.8.13 @ 8:15AM
Great article. While it's unlikely I'll find any whiskey to replace my beloved Elijah Craig bourbon, my Irish heritage impels me to give it a go.
spike59| 2.8.13 @ 10:13AM
Tullimore Dew does nicely..but nothing on either side of the pond beats a good bourbon; Maker's Mark or my personal fave 101 Kickin' Chicken
irish19| 2.8.13 @ 2:28PM
I just found a new bourbon in W. H. Harrison. Very smooth and sweet-almost tastes like it has honey added.
For Irish, Tully is great for everyday, but I prefer something like Connemara or Redbreast for special occasions.
gene| 2.8.13 @ 5:32PM
They sell bourbon now with honey added to it.
Beam has more than one version.
gene| 2.8.13 @ 5:34PM
I spent many years of long arduous research on the many kinds of Vodka, Bourbon and Brandy. Never was much for Scotch or Gin.
Now I stay sober.
irish19| 2.9.13 @ 12:14AM
I've seen those and will not knowingly buy them. The one I mentioned does not have honey mentioned anywhere I can see.
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 2:58AM
A town very close to me has two Irish pubs 75 feet away from each other, and advertises the "world's shortest St. Patrick's Day Parade." Now, if any of ya come up here, I might be tempted to help you engage in field research...(except Jack in Wi., of course, who is not fit to be seen in company ever)
Al Adab| 2.8.13 @ 8:31AM
Where is our good friend Drunken Sailor? I'm certain he will want in on this discussion.
Scotch remains my personal preference (Laguvulin) but that is just a matter of taste. Good Irish is every bit as enjoyable without the peat/smoke tones and Jack Daniels is quite proper American. Would not AmSpec host a blogger convention for the purpose of exchanging ideas and of course a wide ranging tasting of the various world products?
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 11:45AM
Sorry, I was busy sobbing like a wee little lad. Just when I thought life was hopeless my Irish ancestors smile on me. Is this a great day or what?
Al Adab| 2.8.13 @ 12:10PM
A great day indeed. Here's to you my friend.
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 12:40PM
And to you and your's
Stormzeye| 2.8.13 @ 8:33AM
.........brought to you by the Irish Tourist Board.
Just to establish my whisky creds' I've stayed at Bushmills, played golf in County Louth, drank in a few pubs in Belfast and love Guiness and all whisky. Having said that your piece is cute but hardly worth the keystrokes. The simple matter of the thing is that Irish whiskey will always be smooth as elevator music and just as boring. When compared to just about any scotch whether blended or single malt there simply is no contest when flavor and complexity matter. I think the world seems to agree.
Bob Grant| 2.8.13 @ 9:08AM
And just think, if not for WWII and those damn Kennedys , we'd all be drinking whiskey instead of whisky.
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 12:53PM
Was Teddy a whisky or whiskey man?
Bob Grant| 2.8.13 @ 3:40PM
Teddy was a label reader, only to check to alcohol content.
Anthony| 2.8.13 @ 9:29AM
"exceptionally smooth, not too much heat, a hint of honey, and a long finish".
Well, for sure, Mr. May ain't describing Ben Stein. However, he may be describing our AWOL president, who disappeared for over 6 hours when 4 Americans died in Benghazi.
Yep, our oh so smooth president's finishing power seems to take place in rooms that aren't the situation room in the White House.
Impeach the Bastard!!!
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 12:58PM
At least Panetta is sem-honest and testified that there were no calls to or form Obama during the 7 hour attack.
Where was O during the attack? Working on his campaign, most likely, or playing basketball or golf to relax from his hectic campaigning.
Looks like obama and lady bubba were AWOL while Americans got killed.
TLP| 2.8.13 @ 5:05PM
He was picking out his Clothes for the Party at Jay Z's House.
I wonder how Panetta sleeps at night?
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 5:19PM
Panetta will write a book describing the incompetence and treason of obama and lady bubba. The millions he makes will help him sleep well. If he had any principles he would have resigned on Sept 12, 2012.
Controse| 2.10.13 @ 1:53AM
My thought exactly. He could have saved us the calamity the next four years will bring if he only had resigned, and held a news conference to earnestly warn us of the moral vacuousness of Oboutme.
What a spineless generation of pretend patriots we have as leaders.
WinstonS| 2.8.13 @ 10:23AM
The increase in Irish whiskey demand would explain the price increase of my beloved Redbreast 12 year! Truly the finest pot still Irish whiskey available in the U.S. A huge thank you to Jim Murray and his Whiskey Bible for saving the brand and introducing Americans to a true pot still whiskey. When in Dublin you MUST obtain a bottle of Green Spot Irish Whiskey, sadly not available in the U.S. Thank you for a break from politics as usual. For those complaining about the departure, calm done and enjoy a dram. Sláinte!
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 11:51AM
He's a fool who give over the liquor,
It softens the skinflint at once,
It urges the slow coach on quicker,
Gives spirit and brains to the dunce.
The man who is dumb as a rule
Discovers a great deal to say,
While he who is bashful since Yule
Will talk in an amorous way.
It's drink that uplifts the poltroon
To give battle in France and in Spain,
Now here is an end of my turn-
And fill me that bumper again!
Frank Drackman| 2.8.13 @ 11:23AM
Am I the only one who likes "Mr. Boston" Whisky????
I wouldn't know single malt from malt-O-meal, but it will (Redacted) you up like nobody's business...
Frank
irish19| 2.9.13 @ 12:16AM
"Am I the only one who likes "Mr. Boston" Whisky????"
Yes.
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 11:52AM
One of my favorites.
When we drink, we get drunk.
When we get drunk, we fall asleep.
When we fall asleep, we commit no sin.
When we commit no sin, we go to heaven.
So, let's all get drunk, and go to heaven!
--Old Irish toast
gene| 2.8.13 @ 5:36PM
'An Irishman is never drunk if he can hold on to one blade of grass and not fall off the face of the earth".
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 5:44PM
Then I better change my moniker!
George True| 2.8.13 @ 2:22PM
I would enthusiastically agree with the author about the 18 year old Jamieson. But at about $89 a fifth, it is only slightly better than the 12 year old, which is only about $33 a fifth. Nevertheless, the 18 year old is truly sublime, and so I will break it out for special occasions, and use the 12 year old for more casual sipping.
The 18 year old Midleton is rated 100 by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, but it will also set you back about $110 for a fifth.
As for Scotch, even though it is blended and not a single malt, the 18 year old Chivas is rated 100 by Parker. For a non-single malt, it is superb. I recently found it at Costco for $40 a fifth, which was a steal. Normal price is around $50-$55, which is still reasonable considering the quality.
By the way, Frank, what on God's green earth does any of this have to do with Jews?
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 3:01AM
Nothing, George. It was a tweak at Cheesehead Jack, which Frank and I will do at any opportunity.
Cheesehead exists to be ripped at.
Who Knows?| 2.8.13 @ 2:26PM
I remember well the days I grew a distaste for whiskey, the Seagram’s Seven brand usually wrapped tight in a paper bag.
The old man, who left home as a strapping 14 year old to start work as a merchant marine, in 1929, was soon introduced to the bliss hard liquor brought.
When he had to suffer the growing pains of his three kids, me the oldest, around the time we’d beg him to let us drive the 1956 Ford, on our learner’s permit, many times he ‘d have us stop on a slow road, and pull a quick swig from his “baby”.
As time passed, and he “enjoyed” his whiskey every night, it became routine for him to wax nostalgic about his “better days”, forcing us to sit and listen to him. Of course, the next day he’d have forgotten it all.
Then there were the times we’d have to help him stagger from the car, when he was almost totally passed out, into the house, and to bed.
What a man!
Despite his regular nightly whiskey joy, he always managed to get up and go to work as a butcher.
Of course, there were deleterious effects for the children---adult children of an alcoholic, and all that.
I DO remember the day I finally got off on marijuana, as an adult of 25. And, hooray---there was that day this dude sold me some Maui Woowie---what potent grass!
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 3:05PM
Sadly some do not know when to quit. There is a fine line between enjoyment and abuse.
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 3:36PM
Are youse referring to the water of life or hemp?
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 4:56PM
Why the water of life, of course.
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 6:31PM
I'll drink to that.
mike 3/505| 2.8.13 @ 7:31PM
Me too...Of course...I'll drink to pretty much anything.
GobBluthe| 2.8.13 @ 2:40PM
Johnnie Walker is the best Scotch
spike59| 2.8.13 @ 4:04PM
not even close...johnnie walker is to scotch as michelob is to beer
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 6:29PM
In my own experience, Johnnie Walker and Michelob were gateway beverages to better versions of whisky and beer. My dad kept a pretty good supply of spirits and beer around his house and my first taste of scotch was Johnnie Walker Red. Eventually I was able to sample Johnnie Walker Black and the difference was striking with the operative word being smooth. That led me to Chivas Regal, thence to the single malts that made old Johnnie Walker irrelevant to my taste. Michelob was the first premium beer I tried as a youth when my young skull full of mush was easily influenced by advertising. Dear old Dad flew around the world for MATS and collected some decent beers in his travels, so my curiosity was aroused at a young age. Once I tasted the original Guinness, my beer taste was bastardised forever. At one time I was making better beer than I could buy while a home brewer, but never went the commercial route. With so many good micro brews on offer at my local beermonger and a huge selection of single malts, my brew kettle is idle. The coming Obama depression may change that.
irish19| 2.9.13 @ 12:18AM
Same here wrt homebrewing. I need to lay in some new supplies and clean out my gear.
Moe Blotz| 2.9.13 @ 8:49PM
Are youse an all grain brewer?
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 2:50PM
Mr. May, the roots of the germinated barley are not full of sugars and starch. Before malting, the barley corn is steeped in water to commence germination. Within five days the germination is arrested by heating the barley and knocking off the roots. The starch contained inside the hull is then converted to fermentable sugar by mashing, or immersing the malted barley in brewing liquor for an hour or more. The best whiskies are brewed with the unique Maris Otter barley. As an end note, the word whisky comes from the Gaelic uisge, and is known as the "water of life".
Dimitry_Aleksandrovich| 2.8.13 @ 6:53PM
I like Jamesons and Powers. There's nothing like chasing one with a freshly poured pint of Guinness in one of San Francisco's many Irish Pubs.
Jane Chingo| 2.8.13 @ 7:12PM
Macallan is OK, but there's much better. It's mostly cited by people who think they're being hip. And it's phenols, not peat, that give Islays their distinctive taste. Almost all scotch is peated.
Dimitry_Aleksandrovich| 2.8.13 @ 11:36PM
I've never been big on Scotch, but my grandfather that was all he drank when he got home from the war (WWII). He drank Scotch all day until he passed last year, he was 87.
Who Knows?| 2.9.13 @ 11:52AM
When I was on a money run in Saigon, right before the Tet offensive (I was spec 4 in an army finance office), I dared to take a tour of the city by having this old guy peddle me around on a three-wheeled "bike". What a sight I must have been, in my Bermuda shorts!
The traffic was amazing---stoplights, and any order on the streets were nonexistent.
The guy didn't want to be paid in military script, but asked for---Johnny Walker Scotch.
I got him a couple of bottles.
I wonder where he and they are, now.
Oldefarte| 2.9.13 @ 3:58PM
I have been a Bushmills fan and drinker for many, many years now. It coordinates with my Irish heretage. I do however allow it to come in contact with ice, so to that extent I am a HO, HO, HO [no doubt]!!!!!
Dimitry_Aleksandrovich| 2.10.13 @ 6:13PM
On the rocks isn't bad. I would suppose however that in Irish culture drinking whiskey on the rocks is sacrilege as is drinking vodka on the rocks in Russian culture. Last time I was in the former Soviet Union I don't think I ever saw a shot glass. Being that this was the predominantly Muslim section of the former Soviet Union we drank vodka out of a pilar (which is a small bowl) used for drinking tea. One pilar is at least three or four shots. You have to eat with such large amounts of vodka or you'll probably pass out.
Stamp3| 2.10.13 @ 10:17PM
"And every sip takes me back to Belfast, circa 1978, a time of anger, strife, and terrorism. But also of long nights in dimly lit snugs, sipping whiskey, listening and learning about the ideas for which men will kill and die."
Yes and usually women and children.
On a lighter note, I used to work on The Bushnills advertising account, and one evening I was sipping some Black Bush with the then Managing Director of the distillery. A lovely man, he was extolling the virtues of this wonderful whiskey and then said;
"The only thing I don't understand is why whenever I hear a customer ordering one they always ask for a 'Shirley Bassey' ".
JimmyMac1948| 2.11.13 @ 12:29PM
Good article excpet for this: "the Troubles, the civil conflict that broke out in the 1960s"
The 1960s was the latest manifestation of the Irish's resistance to the English that dated back to pre-Elizabethean times. It wasn't something new.