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The Seduction of Cognac
January 9, 2006 | 1 comment
The Great American Saloon Series
The Spirits of Erin
Fighting Irish whiskies are back.
I first developed a taste for Irish whiskey
back in 1978. I was a young foreign correspondent sent to Northern
Ireland to cover the Troubles, the civil conflict that broke out in
the 1960s and ended, for the most part, in 1998. Covering wars was
different back then. Reporters were neutrals. Catholics and
Protestants, Republicans and Loyalists—they all would sit down with
me in Belfast pubs. Even the hard men, even the terrorists—they all
wanted to tell me their stories (and no one tells stories like the
Irish), persuade me of the justice of their cause, let me buy them
a drink, or two, or three. No one seemed to have any desire to cut
my head off. How times change.
I changed, too, of course. For one, I switched from Irish whiskey to scotch and, truth be told, I became a bit of a scotch geek. Here’s an indication: I recently went to see Skyfall, the latest James Bond film, and what I found most exciting—right up there with the girls, the stunts, the special effects, and the gratuitous violence—was the cameo role played by The Macallan.
The first bottle that is seen fleetingly onscreen appears to be the 18-year-old—exceptionally smooth, not too much heat, a hint of honey, and a long finish. Later, the villain pours a wee dram of what is identified as a 50-year-old Macallan. (Fans will get the joke: Dr. No, the first Bond film, was released in 1962.) He balances the drink atop the head of his sultry mistress and attempts to shoot the glass off, William Tell–style. When he doesn’t manage the trick, Bond expresses distress at the waste of a good whisky—saying not a word about the waste of a good woman. Who knew Bond was such a serious single malt aficionado?
But I digress. The point is that I have long wondered why it is that Americans drink scotch whisky rather than Irish whiskey (that’s not a typo—the Scots and the Irish spell their spirits differently). This is especially puzzling considering that the number of Americans of Irish descent is much greater than the number claiming Scottish ancestry.
On a recent visit to Ireland, both the south, the Republic of Ireland, and the north, still part of the United Kingdom, I had the opportunity to talk—and drink—with people in the whiskey business. They helped me begin to unravel this historical mystery.
Once upon a time—from 1850 to 1910, to be precise—there was what is known as the golden age of Irish whiskey. In America and other corners of the civilized world, Irish whiskey was more prestigious and more popular than any other spirit. But when World War I commenced in 1914, German U-boats constrained the trans-Atlantic trade in whiskey and less essential products. Then, in the early 1920s, the Irish Free State was formed, not without acrimony, and British companies, in retaliation, stopped importing the spirits of Erin or distributing them abroad.
There was more. In 1920, the temperance movement achieved its goal: The U.S. Congress enacted national prohibition. Plenty of liquor continued to be sold illegally, much of it phony Irish whiskey produced in the Caribbean, Canada, and Mexico. These spirits left a bad taste, literally and figuratively, even after Prohibition’s repeal in 1933.
Perhaps that explains why, as bars started reopening around America, Joseph P. Kennedy, father of a teenager who would go on to become the first Irish Catholic president of the United States, traveled not to Ireland but to Scotland to buy distribution rights for the whisky being made there.
A few years later, World War II began. American GIs were deployed to Britain—not to Ireland—where more than a few picked up the scotch habit.
Over the years since, scotch’s popularity has steadily climbed, and a growing list of distinctive single malts—whiskies made only from malted barley at individual distilleries and not blended with any other spirits—have become the connoisseur’s beverage of choice.
Indeed, whiskies from Scotland have become so popular that we routinely refer simply to “scotch”—by contrast, no one speaks of “irish.” Distilleries in Scotland proliferated, and whisky lovers even learned to differentiate among the main scotch regions: Highland, Lowland, Speyside, Campbeltown, Islay, and the islands. In Ireland, for more than half a century only two distilleries remained: Midleton in the south and Bushmills in the north. And they were able to turn out only a limited selection of Irish whiskies, not all of them worth writing home about.
BUT HERE’S THE BIG NEWS I bring you from the Emerald Isle: A new golden age of Irish whiskey is beginning. In County Cork, the Midleton distillery, which also produces Jameson whiskies, has a $100 million expansion under way. Distillers plan to double production, confident demand will exceed supply.
Beam, the American whiskey maker, is placing a big bet on an Irish whiskey boom. A year ago, for $100 million, the company bought the Cooley distillery in County Louth and the Kilbeggan distillery on the River Brosna in County Westmeath. The former had been converted from a potato alcohol plant in 1987. The latter, established in 1757, was shut down in the 1950s, and then reopened in 2007 at a cost of $95 million. Master distiller Noel Sweeny says with pride that it is now being restored “to its former glory.” One of its pot stills is 185 years old—the oldest working pot still in the world.
In Northern Ireland, the Bushmills Distillery received a million visitors in 2012, up 50 percent from the previous year. Half the bottles produced at Bushmills go to the U.S., the largest and fastest growing market for Irish whiskey. But Russia, South Africa, Germany, and France are growth markets as well. “It’s a phenomenal time for Irish whiskey,” Jameson and Midleton master distiller Barry Crockett tells me. “Irish whiskey is returning to its preeminent position.”
How does Irish whiskey differ from Scotch whisky? The differences are clear—except when they are not. The rules governing Irish whiskey and scotch are strict and must never be broken—except when they are. For example, Irish whiskey is distilled three times, scotch only twice. The extra distillation produces a smoother, lighter spirit with less heat as it descends the throat. (But Kilbeggan is double-distilled. And on the Scottish island of Islay, Ardbeg distills its scotch two and a half times.)
Frank Drackman| 2.8.13 @ 7:03AM
Hey Clifford Stereotype much??? And are there any Jews in Ireland? Oh wait, that Homo Child Molestor Jack will know...
And since when did TAS become GQ?? Then again maybe I've found a buyer for my 10,000 page Tome on the allures of Malt Liquor...
Frank O' Drackman
Maxwell| 2.8.13 @ 7:47AM
Frank, with all due respect, I wonder what happened to Clint the other Jew lover? And I'm sure that his buddy Jack will be along shortly.
Now, as for something to drink, I prefer Jack, either black or green label.
irish19| 2.8.13 @ 2:23PM
If Jack is from Wisconsin like he claims, it's probably Christian Brothers and a wash for him.
TLP| 2.8.13 @ 3:44PM
What a surprise that Half of the Comments are from Drunken Sailor.
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 4:55PM
Just trying to do my part and keep up the conversation.
Jack in Wi| 2.9.13 @ 8:36AM
Dreck: The cousin of 2 Jewish Lord Mayors of Dublin used to work for me.
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 2:54AM
That's nice, Jack. You still fellate Islamic terrorists every day.
Pecos Pete| 2.8.13 @ 7:41AM
Colonel Mike,with your lengthy experience with scotch (Scotch?) this is your opportunity to become a TAS contributor.
mike 3/505| 2.8.13 @ 10:04AM
Pesco my Battle Buddy! Don't know if I'll have much time to comment, as I am still heavily involved in "field research" on this subject. It looks like it may take a long, long time for me to gather all the data I'll need to draw any credible conclusions. I wouldn't want to make any hasty judgements. Heheheheh.
Regards,
Mike
Al Adab| 2.8.13 @ 11:42AM
Field research, of course. Why didn't I think of that? Oh well, where shall we meet up to compare notes?
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 12:50PM
Finally, a useful article. I like Glenfiddich.
Gr0w1er601| 2.8.13 @ 2:13PM
The Glenfiddich Solera Reserve 15-year old is sublime. I prefer it over the 40-year old Glenfiddich I sampled at the Estes Park Scottish/Irish Highland Games Scotch Whisky Tasting 8 years ago.
TLP| 2.8.13 @ 5:03PM
Yeah.
I like him, too.
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 2:56AM
Carefully check the lethal limits, Mike. And good luck on your decades long journey. :-)
tmac| 2.8.13 @ 8:15AM
Great article. While it's unlikely I'll find any whiskey to replace my beloved Elijah Craig bourbon, my Irish heritage impels me to give it a go.
spike59| 2.8.13 @ 10:13AM
Tullimore Dew does nicely..but nothing on either side of the pond beats a good bourbon; Maker's Mark or my personal fave 101 Kickin' Chicken
irish19| 2.8.13 @ 2:28PM
I just found a new bourbon in W. H. Harrison. Very smooth and sweet-almost tastes like it has honey added.
For Irish, Tully is great for everyday, but I prefer something like Connemara or Redbreast for special occasions.
gene| 2.8.13 @ 5:32PM
They sell bourbon now with honey added to it.
Beam has more than one version.
gene| 2.8.13 @ 5:34PM
I spent many years of long arduous research on the many kinds of Vodka, Bourbon and Brandy. Never was much for Scotch or Gin.
Now I stay sober.
irish19| 2.9.13 @ 12:14AM
I've seen those and will not knowingly buy them. The one I mentioned does not have honey mentioned anywhere I can see.
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 2:58AM
A town very close to me has two Irish pubs 75 feet away from each other, and advertises the "world's shortest St. Patrick's Day Parade." Now, if any of ya come up here, I might be tempted to help you engage in field research...(except Jack in Wi., of course, who is not fit to be seen in company ever)
Al Adab| 2.8.13 @ 8:31AM
Where is our good friend Drunken Sailor? I'm certain he will want in on this discussion.
Scotch remains my personal preference (Laguvulin) but that is just a matter of taste. Good Irish is every bit as enjoyable without the peat/smoke tones and Jack Daniels is quite proper American. Would not AmSpec host a blogger convention for the purpose of exchanging ideas and of course a wide ranging tasting of the various world products?
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 11:45AM
Sorry, I was busy sobbing like a wee little lad. Just when I thought life was hopeless my Irish ancestors smile on me. Is this a great day or what?
Al Adab| 2.8.13 @ 12:10PM
A great day indeed. Here's to you my friend.
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 12:40PM
And to you and your's
Stormzeye| 2.8.13 @ 8:33AM
.........brought to you by the Irish Tourist Board.
Just to establish my whisky creds' I've stayed at Bushmills, played golf in County Louth, drank in a few pubs in Belfast and love Guiness and all whisky. Having said that your piece is cute but hardly worth the keystrokes. The simple matter of the thing is that Irish whiskey will always be smooth as elevator music and just as boring. When compared to just about any scotch whether blended or single malt there simply is no contest when flavor and complexity matter. I think the world seems to agree.
Bob Grant| 2.8.13 @ 9:08AM
And just think, if not for WWII and those damn Kennedys , we'd all be drinking whiskey instead of whisky.
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 12:53PM
Was Teddy a whisky or whiskey man?
Bob Grant| 2.8.13 @ 3:40PM
Teddy was a label reader, only to check to alcohol content.
Anthony| 2.8.13 @ 9:29AM
"exceptionally smooth, not too much heat, a hint of honey, and a long finish".
Well, for sure, Mr. May ain't describing Ben Stein. However, he may be describing our AWOL president, who disappeared for over 6 hours when 4 Americans died in Benghazi.
Yep, our oh so smooth president's finishing power seems to take place in rooms that aren't the situation room in the White House.
Impeach the Bastard!!!
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 12:58PM
At least Panetta is sem-honest and testified that there were no calls to or form Obama during the 7 hour attack.
Where was O during the attack? Working on his campaign, most likely, or playing basketball or golf to relax from his hectic campaigning.
Looks like obama and lady bubba were AWOL while Americans got killed.
TLP| 2.8.13 @ 5:05PM
He was picking out his Clothes for the Party at Jay Z's House.
I wonder how Panetta sleeps at night?
CJW| 2.8.13 @ 5:19PM
Panetta will write a book describing the incompetence and treason of obama and lady bubba. The millions he makes will help him sleep well. If he had any principles he would have resigned on Sept 12, 2012.
Controse| 2.10.13 @ 1:53AM
My thought exactly. He could have saved us the calamity the next four years will bring if he only had resigned, and held a news conference to earnestly warn us of the moral vacuousness of Oboutme.
What a spineless generation of pretend patriots we have as leaders.
WinstonS| 2.8.13 @ 10:23AM
The increase in Irish whiskey demand would explain the price increase of my beloved Redbreast 12 year! Truly the finest pot still Irish whiskey available in the U.S. A huge thank you to Jim Murray and his Whiskey Bible for saving the brand and introducing Americans to a true pot still whiskey. When in Dublin you MUST obtain a bottle of Green Spot Irish Whiskey, sadly not available in the U.S. Thank you for a break from politics as usual. For those complaining about the departure, calm done and enjoy a dram. Sláinte!
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 11:51AM
He's a fool who give over the liquor,
It softens the skinflint at once,
It urges the slow coach on quicker,
Gives spirit and brains to the dunce.
The man who is dumb as a rule
Discovers a great deal to say,
While he who is bashful since Yule
Will talk in an amorous way.
It's drink that uplifts the poltroon
To give battle in France and in Spain,
Now here is an end of my turn-
And fill me that bumper again!
Frank Drackman| 2.8.13 @ 11:23AM
Am I the only one who likes "Mr. Boston" Whisky????
I wouldn't know single malt from malt-O-meal, but it will (Redacted) you up like nobody's business...
Frank
irish19| 2.9.13 @ 12:16AM
"Am I the only one who likes "Mr. Boston" Whisky????"
Yes.
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 11:52AM
One of my favorites.
When we drink, we get drunk.
When we get drunk, we fall asleep.
When we fall asleep, we commit no sin.
When we commit no sin, we go to heaven.
So, let's all get drunk, and go to heaven!
--Old Irish toast
gene| 2.8.13 @ 5:36PM
'An Irishman is never drunk if he can hold on to one blade of grass and not fall off the face of the earth".
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 5:44PM
Then I better change my moniker!
George True| 2.8.13 @ 2:22PM
I would enthusiastically agree with the author about the 18 year old Jamieson. But at about $89 a fifth, it is only slightly better than the 12 year old, which is only about $33 a fifth. Nevertheless, the 18 year old is truly sublime, and so I will break it out for special occasions, and use the 12 year old for more casual sipping.
The 18 year old Midleton is rated 100 by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, but it will also set you back about $110 for a fifth.
As for Scotch, even though it is blended and not a single malt, the 18 year old Chivas is rated 100 by Parker. For a non-single malt, it is superb. I recently found it at Costco for $40 a fifth, which was a steal. Normal price is around $50-$55, which is still reasonable considering the quality.
By the way, Frank, what on God's green earth does any of this have to do with Jews?
Occam's Tool| 2.10.13 @ 3:01AM
Nothing, George. It was a tweak at Cheesehead Jack, which Frank and I will do at any opportunity.
Cheesehead exists to be ripped at.
Who Knows?| 2.8.13 @ 2:26PM
I remember well the days I grew a distaste for whiskey, the Seagram’s Seven brand usually wrapped tight in a paper bag.
The old man, who left home as a strapping 14 year old to start work as a merchant marine, in 1929, was soon introduced to the bliss hard liquor brought.
When he had to suffer the growing pains of his three kids, me the oldest, around the time we’d beg him to let us drive the 1956 Ford, on our learner’s permit, many times he ‘d have us stop on a slow road, and pull a quick swig from his “baby”.
As time passed, and he “enjoyed” his whiskey every night, it became routine for him to wax nostalgic about his “better days”, forcing us to sit and listen to him. Of course, the next day he’d have forgotten it all.
Then there were the times we’d have to help him stagger from the car, when he was almost totally passed out, into the house, and to bed.
What a man!
Despite his regular nightly whiskey joy, he always managed to get up and go to work as a butcher.
Of course, there were deleterious effects for the children---adult children of an alcoholic, and all that.
I DO remember the day I finally got off on marijuana, as an adult of 25. And, hooray---there was that day this dude sold me some Maui Woowie---what potent grass!
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 3:05PM
Sadly some do not know when to quit. There is a fine line between enjoyment and abuse.
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 3:36PM
Are youse referring to the water of life or hemp?
Drunken Sailor| 2.8.13 @ 4:56PM
Why the water of life, of course.
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 6:31PM
I'll drink to that.
mike 3/505| 2.8.13 @ 7:31PM
Me too...Of course...I'll drink to pretty much anything.
GobBluthe| 2.8.13 @ 2:40PM
Johnnie Walker is the best Scotch
spike59| 2.8.13 @ 4:04PM
not even close...johnnie walker is to scotch as michelob is to beer
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 6:29PM
In my own experience, Johnnie Walker and Michelob were gateway beverages to better versions of whisky and beer. My dad kept a pretty good supply of spirits and beer around his house and my first taste of scotch was Johnnie Walker Red. Eventually I was able to sample Johnnie Walker Black and the difference was striking with the operative word being smooth. That led me to Chivas Regal, thence to the single malts that made old Johnnie Walker irrelevant to my taste. Michelob was the first premium beer I tried as a youth when my young skull full of mush was easily influenced by advertising. Dear old Dad flew around the world for MATS and collected some decent beers in his travels, so my curiosity was aroused at a young age. Once I tasted the original Guinness, my beer taste was bastardised forever. At one time I was making better beer than I could buy while a home brewer, but never went the commercial route. With so many good micro brews on offer at my local beermonger and a huge selection of single malts, my brew kettle is idle. The coming Obama depression may change that.
irish19| 2.9.13 @ 12:18AM
Same here wrt homebrewing. I need to lay in some new supplies and clean out my gear.
Moe Blotz| 2.9.13 @ 8:49PM
Are youse an all grain brewer?
Moe Blotz| 2.8.13 @ 2:50PM
Mr. May, the roots of the germinated barley are not full of sugars and starch. Before malting, the barley corn is steeped in water to commence germination. Within five days the germination is arrested by heating the barley and knocking off the roots. The starch contained inside the hull is then converted to fermentable sugar by mashing, or immersing the malted barley in brewing liquor for an hour or more. The best whiskies are brewed with the unique Maris Otter barley. As an end note, the word whisky comes from the Gaelic uisge, and is known as the "water of life".
Dimitry_Aleksandrovich| 2.8.13 @ 6:53PM
I like Jamesons and Powers. There's nothing like chasing one with a freshly poured pint of Guinness in one of San Francisco's many Irish Pubs.
Jane Chingo| 2.8.13 @ 7:12PM
Macallan is OK, but there's much better. It's mostly cited by people who think they're being hip. And it's phenols, not peat, that give Islays their distinctive taste. Almost all scotch is peated.
Dimitry_Aleksandrovich| 2.8.13 @ 11:36PM
I've never been big on Scotch, but my grandfather that was all he drank when he got home from the war (WWII). He drank Scotch all day until he passed last year, he was 87.
Who Knows?| 2.9.13 @ 11:52AM
When I was on a money run in Saigon, right before the Tet offensive (I was spec 4 in an army finance office), I dared to take a tour of the city by having this old guy peddle me around on a three-wheeled "bike". What a sight I must have been, in my Bermuda shorts!
The traffic was amazing---stoplights, and any order on the streets were nonexistent.
The guy didn't want to be paid in military script, but asked for---Johnny Walker Scotch.
I got him a couple of bottles.
I wonder where he and they are, now.
Oldefarte| 2.9.13 @ 3:58PM
I have been a Bushmills fan and drinker for many, many years now. It coordinates with my Irish heretage. I do however allow it to come in contact with ice, so to that extent I am a HO, HO, HO [no doubt]!!!!!
Dimitry_Aleksandrovich| 2.10.13 @ 6:13PM
On the rocks isn't bad. I would suppose however that in Irish culture drinking whiskey on the rocks is sacrilege as is drinking vodka on the rocks in Russian culture. Last time I was in the former Soviet Union I don't think I ever saw a shot glass. Being that this was the predominantly Muslim section of the former Soviet Union we drank vodka out of a pilar (which is a small bowl) used for drinking tea. One pilar is at least three or four shots. You have to eat with such large amounts of vodka or you'll probably pass out.
Stamp3| 2.10.13 @ 10:17PM
"And every sip takes me back to Belfast, circa 1978, a time of anger, strife, and terrorism. But also of long nights in dimly lit snugs, sipping whiskey, listening and learning about the ideas for which men will kill and die."
Yes and usually women and children.
On a lighter note, I used to work on The Bushnills advertising account, and one evening I was sipping some Black Bush with the then Managing Director of the distillery. A lovely man, he was extolling the virtues of this wonderful whiskey and then said;
"The only thing I don't understand is why whenever I hear a customer ordering one they always ask for a 'Shirley Bassey' ".
JimmyMac1948| 2.11.13 @ 12:29PM
Good article excpet for this: "the Troubles, the civil conflict that broke out in the 1960s"
The 1960s was the latest manifestation of the Irish's resistance to the English that dated back to pre-Elizabethean times. It wasn't something new.