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Another Perspective
The Preppy and the Fury
Are Ralph Lauren’s Olympic uniforms the image we want reflecting the American way?
During the fury about outsourcing the manufacture of Olympic uniforms to China, there has been less commentary on what the Ralph Lauren fashion stands for.
Instead, those who denigrate procurement of Olympic kit from China have chosen to make patriotism, the economics of outsourcing, and fear of China their battleground during a caustic election year. House Speaker John Boehner, Minority Leader Nancy Pelosi, and Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid have eloquently expressed their dismay. However, there has been remarkably limited focus on the statement made by the uniforms as a symbol of Americana and American values.
In this debate, strident voices have played the China card, raising the specter of a bête noir that threatens to devour the entire Fortune 500 — if those companies do not completely outsource themselves first, disappearing into the hypothetical ether. Who knows — their angst may come from from the dichotomy of East and West, autocracy versus democracy, and economic planning versus free markets. Further, they may compare opaqueness with transparency, the former being repugnant to a Sarbanes-Oxley and Dodd-Frank dominated standard for financial disclosure and behavior. And lurking beneath these dualisms could be China’s blue water and high tech naval aspirations from the Persian Gulf to the Strait of Malacca, and in the South China Sea and Pacific Ocean at large. In short, Olympic uniforms manufactured by the factories of the world’s second largest economy are deemed a threat to the American ego, as well as a reminder of strategic competition, high unemployment, and potential cosmic strife.
Fine — but we must remember that much has changed since the first Olympic Games in 776 B.C. At that time, there was no Official Preppy Handbook to guide men and women in their tastes, idioms, and sartorial splendor. In ancient Greece, athletes competed in the nude, a trend that may have started when a runner’s loin cloth fell off, as reported by the National Geographic News some years ago. And in ancient times, athletes did not wear red, white, and blue hats somewhat resembling berets but more befitting a sous-chef on the Fourth of July.
As a symbol of the American way, the Olympic uniforms are all form and the wrong substance. They speak to a life of excess of the Hamptons of the 1920s, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and his character Jay Gatsby, a dandy of wealth and glamour from an imaginary place named West Egg, Long Island. They say to the observer, “Hey notice me, I’ve got the goods” in English. They also seem to say “Je ne sais quoi” in French, a well-known Romance language of the celebrated eurozone.
There is no question that Ralph Lauren has brilliantly created a sartorial and life style global enterprise — a cult of retro elegance for some. However, one must wonder if the United States Olympic Committee selected Ralph Lauren for strategic reasons, or just because he manufactures fine quality preppy styles that are widely accepted in the U.S. and abroad and because he has made Olympic uniforms since 2008.
If Olympic uniforms are to speak to strategy and the American brand, the Olympic Committee should first decide what that is, and what values are to be projected in a complicated world — no longer one that is American and non-American, preppy and non-preppy, natural fiber and polyester. It is no secret that the American brand has been tarnished among some of our allies such as Britain, Israel, Poland and the Czech Republic due to a series of cultural missteps, perceived abandonment, and the desire to “reset” affairs with Russia. Inconsistent policies toward Libya, Egypt, Syria, and Iran project an image of confusion about the Middle East in the White House and State Department. Further, seemingly intractable wars in the Muslim world have damaged our national stock there, and we are seen as contributing to a potentially failed state on our border — Mexico.
The Olympic uniforms were an opportunity to present a new face of America — one of leadership in multiculturalism and democracy. Complementing American insignia, an abstract collage resembling flags on black high tech fiber would be one way to make that statement.
There is little evidence that the U.S. government is succeeding in its projection of American values in a positive manner. With some direction from the Olympic Committee about strategy and the American brand, Ralph Lauren could doubtless rise to the occasion in the 2014 Olympic Games, to be held in Russia.
About the Author
Frank Schell is a business consultant and former international banking executive. He serves on the Dean’s International Council of the Harris School of Public Policy Studies, University of Chicago, where he is a lecturer, and on the editorial board of the Chicago-based National Strategy Forum, which focuses on national security issues.
Letter to the Editor View all comments (41) | Leave a comment
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RJ| 7.24.12 @ 6:53AM
The uniforms look like they belong to the French team. There is nothing American about them. Yet, they capture the trend in America. Perhaps someday the country should be renamed, "New France."
Petronius| 7.24.12 @ 1:19PM
The Great Lakes area Was part of New France back around 1630 and ceased to be after 1760.
allanius | 7.24.12 @ 7:44AM
Personally, I think they're hilarious.
Dai Alanye | 7.24.12 @ 7:53AM
The basic problem is the Olympic Games having become an ever-expanding commercial enterprise, no longer dedicated to the amateur spirit. It's been a long time coming, with the Europeans and the dictatorships taking the lead.
The US going for professional basketball players after being cheated out of our first gold was a major step toward the dark side.
I might also complain about the proliferation of "Olympic" sports into strange non-traditional exercises such as rhythmic gymnastics, synchronized swimming, luge and many many more of less than universal interest, slipping ever farther away from traditional track and field or wintertime equivalents. Since I no longer follow the Games, I'm not sure if handball and curling have made it yet, but I'm sure more -- and more silly -- "sports" are on their way.
loulou| 7.24.12 @ 11:07AM
Don't forget beach volleyball!
Occam's Tool| 7.24.12 @ 11:16AM
Curling has, Dai. I live in the same area as a lot of members of our curling team.
OP4| 7.24.12 @ 8:01AM
I have never put 10 seconds of thought into Olympic uniforms and never watched the opening ceremony. Neither will change this summer.
JimH| 7.24.12 @ 8:20AM
Sort of a country club facist look.
TLP| 7.24.12 @ 8:29AM
I'm fascinated by all of the outrage these Outfits have generated from Politicians, because they're made in China.
Our Military Uniforms are made in China.
Their Combat Boots, and their Dress Shoes, are made in China.
We buy Important Components for our Advanced Weapons Systems, from China! (cue the Cricket sounds)
Our Presidential Election Results will be Counted in SPAIN.
Anybody hear SQUAT, about that one?
Stephanie| 7.24.12 @ 8:36AM
Oh Tim, it's a global economy now, didn't you know? It doesn't matter who counts our votes!
"We are the world, we are the children........"
"I'd like to teach the world to sing......" you know, we're all in this together! (all sarcasm of course)
Occam's Tool| 7.24.12 @ 11:17AM
We should be dressed in primo cowboy fashion, dammit!
RCV| 7.24.12 @ 11:30AM
Actually, that would be a classic American look, Occam, and a damn fine suggestion in my book!
Stephanie| 7.24.12 @ 8:33AM
As TLP said, who cares where they are made! It's how they look! Just another abomination and stick into the eye of everyday Americans who are proud to be Americans. Maybe next time they will just do away with the flag.
TLP| 7.24.12 @ 9:16AM
Actually, Steph? I was trying to convey the Selective Outrage, of the people who have Pissed Away our Children's Futures, about something as Innocuous as Olympic Wardrobes.
Anything to draw our attention away from the Destruction of the Country.
Don't get me wrong.
I still think you're Hot.
Conservative Bob| 7.24.12 @ 3:55PM
ISn't it amazing to watch our political class posture and grimace, for the cameras while gleefully destroying our future and liberty on a daily basis....
Such worthless frauds..........
Cobalt| 7.24.12 @ 8:49AM
Ralph Lauren should have designed the uniforms without the damn Polo logo.
Cobalt| 7.24.12 @ 11:53AM
It would have been nice if Ralph Lauren had sewn an American Flag on the blazers, instead of his logo.
Perhaps Lauren can design the dress uniforms for Obama's Youth Corps; sans an American Flag, of course.
Appleby| 7.24.12 @ 9:10AM
Definite auro of Prep School Uniform about these things. And about as American as Obama.
THKrupp| 7.24.12 @ 9:16AM
They look like typical Ralph Lauren stuff...Im not sure why it even matters. To try and link the uniforms with our foreign policy is a tick of a stretch...What should they look like anyhow? Tshirts and jeans? Dirty sweatpants and sweat shirt? Im not even sure what would be considered typical American dress. Suit and ties?
rjh| 7.24.12 @ 9:27AM
The uniforms reflect what a large number of our fellow citizens have become...a bunch of unisex, metrosexual wimps.
Doctor Right| 7.24.12 @ 9:56AM
I don't care about the Olympics; they're a bore, and have been since NBC acquired the broadcast rights in the late-80's and shifted the focus from actual sporting events to soft "human interest" stories and fake dramas. You could watch 3 hours of coverage nowadays and see maybe 20 minutes of athletic events.
That said, these uniforms are a riot! They perfectly express the pathetic, wimpy, neutered, effeminate nature of our modern zeitgeist.
We can hate them - and I do - but they are perfectly appropriate for our current culture.
Think about it...
We disdain achievement as "unfair"...
We fret and kvetch about destroying an enemy who killed 3,000 American citizens on a beautiful September morning...
We elect a wholly unqualified and incompetent man to the nation's highest office because it's just sooooooooo cool to vote for the black guy....
We're afraid to admit that culture matters, and that Islam is antithetical to our traditions...
Our kids know more about the Kardashians than about American history...
etc, etc, etc...
In short, we've become a nation of pussies, so we might as well dress the part.
Chesty Puller is turning over in his grave...
PolishKnight| 7.24.12 @ 10:31AM
I think they look similar to European flight attendant uniforms and lame ones at that. (As the metrosexuals and gays often gush about the shows Pam Am and Mad Men, stewardesses' uniforms of the past were sexy and feminine and pilots and stewards' uniforms were handsome.
It also reveals a hypocrisy of the left which is in love with defanged old Europe as their idealized utopia even as they are doing their best to convert both places into third world countries. Why not a Kenyan outfit to reflect the (half) ancestry (and possible birthplace) of the existing president? Why not something inspired by Mexico as a nod to the fastest growing Democrat constituency? Actually, I imagine they WILL do that, next time, if Obama wins and they feel more confident moving forward. But by then, only the most fanatical of them will care about western Europe anymore as they struggle within their brand, or party, for control and dominance. By then, the Olympics will be more like the hunger games both literally and figuratively.
Occam's Tool| 7.24.12 @ 11:18AM
I'm not watching the Olympics; I have more important things to do like trim my nose hair.
PolishKnight| 7.24.12 @ 2:16PM
Occam, my wife is a former gymnast and her father is a coach and former gymnast himself so we _are_watching! She also likes to see the Ukrainian team come out (apparently, the women's uniforms this year are supposed to be quite eye catching!) I also like to cheer on the American gymnast team, the American swim team, and nearly all the Polish athletes. I then call my Lithuanian friend and tease him about Poland winning more medals.
"Dovai! No pain... no pain!"
satan| 7.24.12 @ 7:43PM
Your speaking for, and describing yourself, right?
AllAmericanAmerican| 7.24.12 @ 10:11AM
When I was younger we used to beat people up who dressed like that.
MK48| 7.24.12 @ 11:51AM
AAA...now that is funny...........you made my day.
Joepat| 7.24.12 @ 10:42AM
First of all, please do not have the athletes wear the berets. That would help right away and wouldn't cost a dime!
Secondly, fire the Olympic Committee member/s who approved these uniforms.
Thirdly, the suggestion about genes and t-shirts, although made in jest, was not bad. Make that khakis and blue sport shirts with some sort of red and white stripes for the men and khaki skirts with blue sporty blouses with the stripes for the women. Simple. Neat. American as all get-out. Why hats at all? No one wears hats anymore, except those in service. These athletes are not in service; they are athletes. Give them a break! No hats!
Joepat| 7.24.12 @ 10:43AM
Of course, I meant "jeans" and not "genes"; although if the athletes were to wear their genes, it would be fantastic!
THKrupp| 7.24.12 @ 10:52AM
I would agree these uniforms do look like an east coast family going out for a sunday afternoon cruise on their yacht. But thats what you get when you hire Ralph Lauren. All his stuff looks like that. Khakis and polo shirts would be a huge improvement. I looked at olympic uniforms from the past and most tend to be kinda goofy.
Who Knows?| 7.24.12 @ 11:01AM
It’s the berets!
Who even wears hats anymore?
Why not NO head coverings? America is supposed to be the land of the free, a country with wide-open fields in all dimensions, physical, so let the youthful athletes THEMSELVES openly expose their own individual hairstyles.
Do you see any actors on Jay Leno wearing hats, excepting the self-ordained freaks, whose shtick involves such attention grabbing apparatus?
I remember one Olympics when cowboy hats were chosen. I bet there was lots of criticism then.
Of course, there are probably rules that constrain the uniform designers. Wouldn’t it be “neat”, though, to let the athletes choose their own head covering?
See Americans in their full hat diversity!
Actually, these days, turned around baseball hats would be most appropriate, given the level of culture here. Or, why not TWO of them, with bills in the front AND back, so the athletes look like Sherlock Holmes---hey, even furnish them with a pipe, and some hooch, to blow, as they do the opening ceremony.
Actually, I enjoy the introductions of each nation’s team, very much. It’s so cool to see a strong sampling of all creeds and races!
loulou| 7.24.12 @ 11:06AM
Who cares about the Olympics anymore?
The pampered athletes can go around in their birthday suits for all I care.
Buck Ofama| 7.24.12 @ 11:58AM
GAYLISPICS.
Kingofthenet| 7.24.12 @ 12:13PM
I especially like the Prominent Polo Logo on them, nothing say's Mittens America than a guy on a polo horse.
JD| 7.24.12 @ 12:25PM
Time was, being able to buy imported was considered a sign of advanced status. Now, it's a political football, and for all the wrong reasons.
That the USOC bought the most cost-effective uniforms is the wrong issue. The real issue is that the most cost-effective uniforms were produced in China, not America. Those who make doing business in America more difficult have only themselves to blame.
Kingofthenet| 7.24.12 @ 12:54PM
The models look like villains John McClane would need to take care of, maybe some East Germans or Ultra-Nationalists from Russia.
Petronius| 7.24.12 @ 1:44PM
Imagine what kind of team we would field and what they would wear to the opening of the 2016 games if Chicago had won the bid. Maybe tie dye dashikis over their bullet proof vests would be seen upon entering Toy Soldier Field sporting the new flag with the gay rainbow in the canton where the stars are now. The Olympics is not supposed to be a fashion show. Let the teams show up in their warmups and sweats with every athlete carrying a small color. The marks from the American Judges on this are in negative figures.
noone| 7.24.12 @ 3:37PM
The uniforms look alot like the Italian uniforms from the 1936 Olympics. Not what we want to look like!!!
satan| 7.24.12 @ 7:48PM
A very, very important issue.
Stuart Koehl| 7.25.12 @ 12:10PM
You're a dork, Schell. Look at the uniforms worn by our Olympic Teams from the 1890s well into the 1950s, and you will see that they all aspired to this look. You may think it's preppy, in fact, it's simply all American.
Except for that hat. I would have gone with the classic straw boater, myself.
SuSu| 7.25.12 @ 2:52PM
Ralph Lauren needs to find another line of work, because he has LOST his sense of style. He is not the designer of the future, but a relic of the past, as displayed by the Olympic wardrobe he came up with. I wouldn't even let my dog wear that get up, why should be force the olympians to be embarassed on the world stage??????