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The Nation's Pulse
Friday Night Fish
Pigging out at the weekly fish fry.
Remember when a fish fry was just fish fry?
These days — when everything hip is hyped to the nth degree, and everyone and his brother is an amateur marketing guru — dinner time on the Lenten day of reflection is no longer just a communal meal in a moldy church basement. It is an event. A destination.
In St. Louis, a Catholic stronghold, fish fries have become as popular as post-season baseball games or a Sarah Palin book signing. Indeed, some are becoming too popular for their own good. This past Friday at my parish the line snaked out the basement door and round the block, leaving some customers, literally, out-in-the-cold.
Why this sudden trendiness?
One reason, at least in my neighborhood, is there are fewer chances for residents to come together as neighbors, parishioners — in a phrase, as a community. This is, after all, the era of bowling alone. If customers are willing to endure a 45-minute wait in March weather they are obviously hungry for something more substantial than fried cod and mac and cheese. Call it an appetite for community, if you will.
Or call it a respite from cabin fever. Fish fries are also a sure sign of spring, and are often the first chance many of us have to poke our heads out of the house, not unlike the golden daffodils that are beginning to spring up around town.
Since fish fries are often a parish’s main fundraiser, competition is intense. Some parishes pull out all the stops to attract clientele. Live music has been a staple for years. It is not unusual for parishes to serve gourmet meatless dinners on fine china with real silverware. Offerings include: fish tacos, sushi samplers, frog legs, grilled shrimp, jack salmon, and, on tap, the best local microbrews. Others have taken the opposite approach, trumpeting their traditional fare (God’s cod and French fries) served on paper plates (the green-minded bring their own plates, of course) and washed down with Budweiser on draft. None of that snobby, elitist fare for us.
NATURALLY, THE LOCAL hipsters were quick to get in on the ground floor, organizing bus trips (on public transportation, naturally) to a different fish fry each Friday of Lent. One Facebook group called STL Fish Fry Crew advertises itself this way:
This crew goes around to Saint Louis fish fry dinners at parishes and various organizations to dine on fish and drink beer. We have been doing this for ten or so years now, and it is a casual meet-up and kid-friendly. [We] tend to keep it pretty local…. There are many a fine Fish Fry in this town, and by all means go to all over and report your results.
Palatability Styrofoam plates and plastic silverware. No visible recycling even with cans of soda and beer sold.” No “mindful products”? Boo, hiss.
the only review site that combines comments on Urban Design, Sustainability, and Fried Cod!”
Much to the Catholics’ chagrin, fish fries have become so trendy that other sects have begun cutting into their profits. Methodists, Presbyterians, and countless non-denominationals have all fired up their deep fryers, even though their doctrines say nothing about fish-only Fridays. Even the local Unitarians sponsor an Unfish Fry, aimed at the Vegetarian Unitarian. Not everyone is happy about this ecumenicalism. When the local Jewish paper, the Jewish Light, reviewed local fish fries, some of its readers were up in arms: “In the Jewish universe, Friday night is for Shabbat, not fish-fry hopping,” one reader kvetched. “It is really offensive to have a Jewish institution organize against traditional ways by reviewing Friday-night dining at area churches.”
Sadly, when something becomes this popular crass commercialization cannot be far behind. This Friday ESPN Radio’s whacky “Afternoon Mayhem” crew will broadcast live from St. Gabriel’s Church’s fish fry. That is one event I will not be attending.
About the Author
Christopher Orlet writes from St. Louis.
Letter to the Editor View all comments (31) | Leave a comment
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Herb| 3.8.12 @ 7:46AM
I went to a fish & chips fundraiser at our local monastery. In the serving line I asked one,
"Are you the fish friar?" To which he replied,
"No, I'm the chip monk!"
(very, very old)
albert constantine jr.| 3.8.12 @ 9:03AM
As I read the "fish fry" menu that included frog legs, I wasn't aware that amphibians qualified as seafood (or at least "non-meat"). Since a duck swims in water, does it qualify as well?
Petronius| 3.8.12 @ 9:36AM
Yes. But only in Baton Rouge, La. by diocesan dispensation. It's an old depression edict.
albert constantine jr.| 3.8.12 @ 9:44AM
I guess that since it is a religious obligation or indulgence, the religious hierarchy gets to set the rules. It kind of reminds me of those who respond to the debate regarding whether a tomato is a fruit or a vegetable pointing to the Court’s ruling in the tax case as dispositive.
Herb| 3.8.12 @ 9:40AM
Hmmm......frogs start out as tadpoles with gills, and unlike ducks they can't fly (unless you're a barefoot kid trying to catch one), but I remember for a fact in Wisconsin where we lived that the Catholic Church said frog legs on Friday were OK, and most seafood restaurants in Green Bay had them on the menu.
W| 3.8.12 @ 11:49AM
We average about a thousand fish dinners every Friday at our church. Simple menu, fried or baked fish, mac and cheese or fries, and cole slaw, and the 50/50 raffle.It is a good opportunity to see negihbors and parishoners.
Sandra| 3.8.12 @ 9:11AM
I think we are finding that "bowling alone" just does not cut it. When "something happens," a tornado, a hurricane, a heavy snowfall... you can't rely on "government" to do anything, but you CAN RELY ON NEIGHBORS!
Trent| 3.8.12 @ 1:53PM
Sandra, you are right.
Several days ago when we were hit with a surprise snowfall (a surprise because it was more inches than any of the weathermen anticipated), we once again here had the "bandit snowplow man" at work. He (we think it must be a he) is not a bandit. But he comes and snowplows and no one sees him. He does about a dozen driveways. Clears them off pretty good, enough that people can get out to the main road.
He's anonymous. No notes. No desire for acknowledgement. I'd surely offer to pay some for this unexpected service (that no city or county plowers could or would do). We have our guesses as to who this is, but never any real hints.
Two years ago when we had more snowfall it was the same. This friendly "bandit" in the dark of night and early morning reminds me that we still have people who believe in community.
Petronius| 3.8.12 @ 9:41AM
Friday night has always been dinner out and bar night in St. Louis. And people go where they know their friends are.
Shannon| 3.8.12 @ 9:55AM
Sounds like great fun. But what has this to do with Great Lent. For a real Lent, go to an Eastern Orthodox Church on Wednesday evening or Friday morning for Presanctified Liturgy.
Henry Calvin| 3.8.12 @ 10:29AM
Don't worry, Shannon, we Catholics haven't forgotten what Lent is really about. We invite you over Friday evenings for Stations of the Cross and daily Mass every day. Some parish's may have taken their lenten fish frys a bit far, but the penitental preparation meaning of Lent is not totally forgotten.
Skip| 3.8.12 @ 12:24PM
Ha! Great to read about my own unique little pocket of the universe.
My parish went to 1400lbs of fish last week.
Bon fait, Mr. Orlet!
Mike McLaren| 3.8.12 @ 1:09PM
I guess you can call me a grump, but I'm with Shannon. Friday's during lent isn't suppose to be about partying. Instead of splurging on gourmet sea food dish's, our intent is to go without meat which for most of us is a little bit of a sacrafice. A little sacrafice to help unite ourselves to Christ on his cross.
Petronius| 3.8.12 @ 3:43PM
The ember laws of meatless Fridays comes from the middle ages, and was a means of preserving the limited supply of game laid in from the previous fall hunts, salted and sealed in the local tithe barns and dispensed by the church chapter and steward of the local Baron's household.
Paul McGrath| 3.8.12 @ 2:19PM
I like the beer thing. That's one good thing about being a Catholic. They don't mind if you drink your ass off.
Nick| 3.8.12 @ 8:31PM
Mr. McGrath,
To get drunk, on purpose, is a mortal sin. You cannot go out with the intent to get hammered.
Unfortunately, I didn't find this out until my Army drinking days were long over. This would have saved me many a painful 2-mile run during P.T.! Ha-ha!
vatvince37| 3.8.12 @ 2:47PM
I believe that Shannon's and Mr. McGrath's points are well-taken: Lent is supposed to be forty days of fasting and reflection, not a period of get-togethers in which the presence of fish in some way changes the purpose of Lent. I'm reasonably sure that many who attend the Novus Ordo parishes look somewhat askance on the necessity of non-meat Fridays during what the Italians call, Quadresima, but for those who attend Traditional Catholic parishes, we abstain from meat EVERY Friday during the year. Fifty years ago, believe it or not, every Catholic - with minor exceptions, of course - would have been required to do the same thing.
Two quick comments: Mr. McGrath's comment about the Church not minding if someones imbibed excessive amounts of adult beverages is clearly mistaken. It's called gluttony.
Finally, I wonder if Mr. Calvin took some ribbing as a child/adult for being Catholic with that particular surname.
Tim the Enchanter| 3.8.12 @ 3:17PM
Interesting... you're the first person here that I've seen (besides myself) use the perfectly correct term "Novus Ordo."
PJ| 3.8.12 @ 5:25PM
He may be using it but he is not using it correctly. Novus Ordo refers to a particular worshiping rite belonging to the Roman Catholic Church not to a type of parish.
Petronius| 3.8.12 @ 3:46PM
John Calvin was from Paris and baptized Jean Chauvin.
SF_Exile| 3.8.12 @ 4:28PM
I began trying to observe year round meatless Fridays a couple of years ago. It kind of came about organically, as I have a non-Catholic husband who can never remember when Lent is. I know of a couple others in my parish who observe Fridays as I do. Older family members gave me weird looks when I mentioned this to them. They all asserted how much of a hardship it was to have to forgo meat on Fridays. I will say that it's less of an issue nowadays when good sushi is so easy to find. But I will admit that some summer Fridays I bonk and throw a sirloin on the grill!
Nick| 3.8.12 @ 8:16PM
SF Exile,
I, too, abstain from meat on Fridays year round. And most Wednesdays throughout the year, as well.
Please remember, when you have that steak, that you are still obligated to do some other form of penance.
The change made by the Church was to address the Catholics of the world who did not eat that much meat (or none at all) so that they could perform a more meaningful act of penance. In the U.S., the bishops decided that Friday's act of penance could be chosen by the individual.
Lent is a penitential season, as is Advent. It's about denying ourselves worldly goods in order to get closer to God, by embracing holy things. As Christ did for forty days in the wilderness.
Have a blessed Lent and Easter.
God Bless!
Paul McGrath| 3.9.12 @ 12:08AM
I was being a bit silly, Mr. Vat, but only a bit. Mr. Orlet's descriptions of Lenten fasting doesn't sound like much of a fast at all. Indeed, he left out bingo and five card stud.
DG in GA| 3.8.12 @ 3:25PM
I don't know about St. Louis, but EVERY Friday is fish fry night in Wisconsin! Restaurants compete on who has the best fish fry. I'm not even Catholic and I enjoyed the Friday fish fry menu in Milwaukee!
cicero| 3.8.12 @ 3:48PM
In down river Detroit, you are / were allowed to eat muscrat on Fridays without violating the fast and abstinence prohibitions of Lent. Early on in the settleing of the area, protien was at a premium, and the Bishops gave the dispension so the folks could eat whatever they could catch. Eventually, it became one of the local staples in all the restaurants. Or, maybe they just thought that eating muscrat was more of a penance than eating walleye or perch.
Petronius| 3.8.12 @ 3:50PM
DG
Your lakes are closer than ours. The rough fish in the rivers are not good eating. Would you want to see drum on your menu? How about gar? As to the lakes; forget bass. And the blue gill crappie rise too late. But the trout streams opened last week.
vatvince37| 3.8.12 @ 5:19PM
My Dear Petronius, a fine Latin moniker, to be sure.
I am fully aware of Jean Chauvin's birthplace and baptismal name. What is beyond cavil is what this baptized Catholic's contributions were to his Church, a contribution I suggest, that is less than laudatory, unless you accept the concept of predestination, and the removal of the Catholic altar. (See: Eamon Duffy, The Stripping of the Altars.)
Another Frenchman, born and baptized Catholic, also had some visionary thoughts. It was Montesqiueu who wrote: The Catholic Church will destroy the Protestants. Then it will become Protestantized.
So you see, Petronious, there are some insightful Gauls.
Petronius| 3.8.12 @ 11:39PM
We have over time debased our Churches by seeking ease. We face a crisis of incivility and economic collapse because more of us than not have refused to accept and engage the rigors and vicissitudes of life. And the despots who rule us have expressed their intent to persecute those who have Faith in God and not them. When they come for us I would stand my watch in the Garden with you and all of like mind. Duffy's book is in my library, but I haven't gotten to it. For now, let us fry fish and break bread.
Paul McGrath| 3.9.12 @ 12:14AM
I hope I have the strength to stand with you, Mr. Petronius. I mean this sincerely.
I am assuming that you have taken your on-line moniker from the novel Quo Vadis? The noble character who remains non-Christian? But who acts like one in every way?
Petronius| 3.9.12 @ 1:20AM
I take it from the answer the eminent Leo Genn playing that role gave to Peter Ustinov as Nero when asked that question. When truth is the issue, I only have one face. I'm ex. After the last pastor played favorites and threw me out, no more. Too many parishes are like clubs. There are the insiders guarding their turf and everybody else in a litter box decorated with crosses and statuary.
In the end of this life
"Iron Cold Iron is Master Over All"
casquette rockstar | 3.9.12 @ 2:43AM
agree.