The American Spectator : Almost Dying in the White Mountains

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Almost Dying in the White Mountains

By G. Tracy Mehan, III on 10.19.10 @ 6:07AM

While living free amid the fall colors and Antarctic winds of the Granite State.

Thanks to the generous hospitality of old friends, despite the taunting of my peers claiming that I was going on a senior citizen fall color tour, my wife and I journeyed to the lovely town of Jackson, New Hampshire this October.

Jackson is a place beyond the imaginings of even the most devoted viewers of the TV series Newhart (1982-1990), which, while set in Vermont, captured the imagination of this son of the Midwest and fortified my L.L. Bean fantasies of fall splendor in New England.

Neither we nor our other traveling companions, friends from St. Louis, were disappointed.

Crossing a beautiful covered bridge, we entered one of the charming towns which thrive in the shadow of the White Mountains and the towering Mount Washington.

We had arrived at the peak of the fall colors in early October which intensified every day we were there. The New England chill was invigorating and the sunlight was crystalline. The beauty was almost painful to behold.

But imagine our surprise when we attempted to drive up to the top of Mount Washington, were stopped half way up because of snow and ice on the summit.

Making the best of the situation, we joined other travelers at a pull-out to take in the view of the surrounding Presidential Range, including Mount Adams and Mount Madison. Stepping out of the car, even in the bright sunlight, we entered Antarctica. The wind was gusting up to over 70 miles per hour and the wind chill was around 17 degrees below zero.

We could hardly stand up, holding onto each other to keep our legs from being blown out from under us.

An employee at this site, standing bravely in the blasting wind while directing traffic, was philosophic about his condition. "What a job," he said. Frustrated that many of the drivers were not taking his instructions to pull over and not attempt to go any further up the mountain, he shook his head at the backed up traffic on the road. "Those who don't speak English go on, but smart people pull over here."

Only later did we learn that Mount Washington has the most irascible weather in the lower 48 states and maybe the worst weather in the world. Evidently, despite its modest elevation of 6,288 feet above sea level, it is smack dab in the path of the Jet Stream, or so I am told. It is the roughest part of the Appalachian Trail and deaths have occurred on the mountain when unwary or inexperienced hikers are caught in a weather shift. There is a major research station on the top of the mountain.

Note to free marketeers: the road up Mount Washington is private, a kind of toll road, which first opened in 1861. Evidently, they have kept the concession even though the surrounding land is all National Forest property.

The White Mountains start from a much lower point above sea level (Jackson is at less than a thousand feet), lower, say, than the Rockies which gradually emerge out of the high plains. They rise very sharply and are quite striking in character. Given the elevations they have very high timber lines. So their slopes are mostly covered with forests which provide spectacular vistas in the fall and probably the summer, too, for that matter. Moreover, the Dixville and Crawford Notches, what in other parts of the country would be called gaps or passes, are breathtaking and must be a challenging drive in the snow and ice of a New England winter.

The Balsams, built in 1866 and one of the Grand Resort Hotels of New Hampshire, is situated right at Dixville Notch where, since 1960, the first votes in the nation are cast in a presidential election year. This hotel must be seen to be believed. White, expansive and of wood construction, amidst overwhelming landscape, it is a delight.

There are several of these in New Hampshire, including the Mount Washington Resort, where the Bretton Woods agreement was negotiated after World War II.

A Michigander would recognize the architectural antecedents of the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island in these and other hotels and resorts in New Hampshire.

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About the Author

G. Tracy Mehan, III served at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency in the administrations of both Presidents Bush. He is a consultant in Arlington, Virginia, and an adjunct professor at George Mason University School of Law.

Letter to the Editor View all comments (16) | Leave a comment

Intelligent Design| 10.19.10 @ 7:21AM

The scenery is something wicked. A-yup. God's country.

NH - Living| 10.19.10 @ 7:46AM

Yep - God's country - but He removed the sign (Old Man of the Mountains) that once indicated 'NH Makes Men' several years ago - since with all the @#$ leftist libs and Demorats elected by these old 'Yankees' are destroying this state - and, it IS the voters living 'north of the notches' that are voting for the crud running this state from Senator "Never saw a pre-born I don't want to kill' CINO Shaheen to Gov. 'Nice guy - let's tax everything that moves' Lynch to 'Liar' Shea-porter and "Clueless' Hodes - the whole bunch are working hard to return the state to an extension of the People's Republic of mASSachusetts!

JohnD| 10.19.10 @ 8:05AM

I went to law school up there. Nice people in New Hampshire (for Yankees) but too damned cold. I finally got tired of shoveling snow 6 months out of the year and moved back to my native Maryland.

I found New England to be a dying place, its best years behind it. Every old couple you meet tells you their children had to move away (south usually) to find work. Aside from paper mills and cutting trees down, not much economic activity. The people there seem to treat life as something to be endured and survived, rather than enjoyed and celebrated.

I also hated the isolation. Not enough people around, especially minorities of any kind (only minority up there is people with French last names).

It wasn't for me. Everything you describe, the fall scenery, the quaint towns, nice people, can be found in Virginia on Skyline Drive and the Shenandoah, but without the pall of despair and the dread of the coming harsh winter.

John M| 10.19.10 @ 9:14AM

Less see... I'm born and raised in New Hampshire having lived all over the state. I lived in Laconia on Lake Winnepesaukee in the 50s through the early 70s when a common folk could actually own lake front property. No more. Now we see million dollar homes and thousands of boats. Terrible loss. I'm now a Mainer living at the end of the line up here in no man's land. Anywhere you want to go costs days of planning and huge transportation costs. At least we have an airline. We have fantastic sports teams and fresh air. We also have RINOS.

My family has done what most young people do, which is move away. North Carolina and Illinois. So I'm packing up and saying goodbye to the N'Easters and moving to central USA where I can hop on a plane or drive to see family and civilization. I've got my refrigerator sticker for overnight Lobster deliveries, my Pats, Red Sox and Celtics hats. I'm leaving behind my snow blower and black fly repellent. Can't wait to visit the rest of the country from a central location.

Matt Morehouse| 10.19.10 @ 10:06AM

No minorities? I count that as a great advantage.

loulou| 10.19.10 @ 11:25AM

What's he talking about--no minorities?
I'm sure Mexicans have invaded NH.

Sheila| 10.20.10 @ 3:48PM

JohnD - Aren't you the one who has written in defense of bureaucrats in the past, on the grounds that you were one of the "good" government employees?

Oh gee, not enough minorities in New Hampshire? Good thing you moved back to Maryland (Montgomery County is my guess) with its safe-haven policies for illegals and all the "middle-class" law-abiding blacks who've taken over PG county (heavy sarc, folks). What you, in your infinite wisdom, saw as despair, some might see as stoicism and non-whiny non liberals.

Yes, New England is dieing - but not from the natives - from all the Ellis Island immigrants and their entitlement mentality.

I, too, am from Maryland, but I got the hell away from the East as quickly as I could as soon as I grew up and grew conservative.

NH| 11.11.10 @ 9:48PM

Sweet, because we don't want pussies like you up here anyway.

Remi Online| 10.19.10 @ 1:10PM

i was in Jackson, New Hampshire some time ago with my friends, i think it was my best vacation

vtwin| 10.19.10 @ 6:28PM

No Hell's Angels?

charliebtavoNH| 10.19.10 @ 8:01PM

There are Hells Angels in Manchester. I haven't heard of any in Jackson though.

Chad| 10.19.10 @ 9:05PM

I was just on a trip to New England and returned about 10 days ago. The White Mountains in New Hampshire are incredible and such an awesome display of God's beautiful creation! There was so much to see in the Park it's really hard to see it all in such a short time. It was an amazing place to visit this time of year with the leaves changing their many colors and the weather is cooler but not bad to be out hiking. I would love to go back there again next year, but will probably visit another must see part of our great country. This brought back a lot of memories from my recent trip, thanks for writing this article.

Irish Spectre| 10.20.10 @ 9:53AM

...next time around, take a day and head on down to Cape Ann (i.e., Gloucester, Rockport, Essex and Manchester by the Sea), New England's "other cape", with waaay less traffic and schlock than Kennedy's Cape Cod, with beaches, seascapes, art studios, antique shops and seafood that rival any, and a working fishery to boot!!

Jo Anne Shatkin| 10.20.10 @ 8:55PM

Tracy, I love how you turn your experiences into stories. Fellow commenters, I wish you would post your full name and photograph, you might think twice about the idiotic statements you make.

Rebecca| 10.21.10 @ 3:55AM

The biggest difference between China and America is the population. That is why we have so many beautiful sceneries but have to be explored to farm. Whatever, United States is really a great country with gorgous scenery. It's awesome. The one that I like most is Hawaii.

Rose Mare Plante| 10.22.10 @ 9:47PM

I was born in a small town in southern N.H., Greenville and lived there for 71 years. It became difficult to keep my house and yard up to how I wanted it. So, I move to Florida. I still consider N.H. my home and I miss it sooooooo.