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Another Perspective
Boston’s French Table
France is back but la différence remains.
If Americans hate the French so much, why do we try so hard to learn the secrets of their good life over there, why does the French “brand” — even when phony — sell so well, and why do we happily pay through the nose for a good French dinner and a bottle of their wine?
It came to me at a big French feed in Boston recently that these questions are more complicated than they seem. For it works the other way, too. The French sometimes sneer at us but they want our way of life, our “brand,” and they even go for American fast food. Can we all be right? I think we can.
The occasion for weighing these heavy matters was the latest “Table Française,” a quasi-social event organized by Boston restaurateur Jacky Robert for 40 or 50 diners, most of whom didn’t know each other. We all agreed to sit among strangers at two long tables while chatting only in French and enjoying some of his fine cuisine and French wine. The linen, the crystal, and the silver raised the tone well above picnic level.
The clientele at these monthly dinners is typically 50-50 French expats and American locals, most of them polyglot academics, dabblers in international work, and Francophiles or Americanophiles.
I was pleasantly surprised to see that France is back after a long dry spell when everything French was declared taboo. The hang-up was then-President Jacques Chirac’s decision to stay out of the “coalition of the willing” in the second Gulf War. As an American, you didn’t dare even speak French in those days. Ask John Kerry, who was caught on camera showing off his French to a TV journalist from Paris. It still comes up.
Today the climate has eased for all of us.
Admittedly I am working with a slightly elitist sample here, but this gathering demonstrated how a free-wheeling discussion among informed people can get beyond the stereotypes and cut to the real issues that both separate us while also drawing us together.
The French-American relationship is probably the most over-analyzed of any two nations today. One friend of mine in Paris wrote a book that she cleverly called “French or Foe?” Despite our long history of cooperation, no one is ever quite sure.
The Boston crowd was up to the task of continuing this analysis. Amid much shouting, one group of diners came up with a list of stark differences that define us:
• The French today are most interested in vacations, drinking and love-making.
• Americans today (as yesterday) are most interested in work and success, accumulating wealth, and making a show of organized religion.
Thus the stage is set for near-total incompatibility — except that Americans yearn for more of those French qualities and vice-versa.
Moving on to our governments, both sides seemed to feel sorry for their beleaguered leaders. Nicolas Sarkozy was described by one French woman as “intelligent but emotionally fragile” while an American man offered that Barack Obama is “intelligent but unfairly bludgeoned” by his opposition. Where we all converged was in the view that while both men were elected to bring about dramatic change, neither seems able to realize his promises in their hostile environments.
The debate eventually hit upon the mood of urban dwellers in both countries. “Americans on the street — total strangers — smile at me and say hello,” said one French woman who is on the Harvard faculty. “When I go to France everyone looks mad as hell.” (“Tout le monde fait la guele.”)
She added that she feels most relaxed when returning to the United States after a visit to Paris. “I show my Green Card to the passport officer and he actually says ‘Welcome home.’ My heart flutters,” she said, grasping her chest.
Letter to the Editor View all comments (29) | Leave a comment
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MoeBlotz| 10.8.10 @ 7:21AM
French or pseudo-French,your Anglo-bashing is unwarranted. Spend a little time in the the rural pubs,a vanishing entity in the UK,and speak to some real Englishmen. You are all too haughty for such a venture I expect and you probably would make some stupid comment about warm beer.
Harry the Horrible| 10.8.10 @ 8:52AM
When I visited the UK, all I met were friendly people, anxious to help or to show me what they were doing. My blatant Americanism didn't put 'em off at all.
The food wasn't bad, either. Pub food is actually pretty good. The only complaint I have is that I never got a chance to try a curry or "real" fish and chips.
There was a little problem with the language. In Oxford I tried following directions to get back to my hostel near the train station and ended up walking down a motorway toward London... I finally gave up and called a cab.
The video cameras everywhere in London were a bit creepy, too.
Paul D| 10.8.10 @ 3:13PM
Best meal I ever had in my life was in England. Although admittedly, it was an Indian (or Indo-British) restaurant.
And we sure could learn a thing or two about English Breakfasts and High Tea.
But back to the main subject of the article - I think French women really are lovely.
JP| 10.8.10 @ 3:35PM
It's too bad that Real Ale is going the way of the Betamax in rural UK. Many of thier pubs now just serve Euro-lagers; a few decades ago, one could find decent bitters brewed locally, naturally carbonated, and still served from a cask. I wish I could could my hands on some Old Peculier
ggoblue| 10.8.10 @ 7:32AM
"WE"???
we elite snobs lol
Melvin| 10.8.10 @ 7:40AM
You know, I visited England once and never had the chance to visit the type of community pub like Moe described.
It is a place where a fella can sit most of the day and see all his friends come in for a, "pint" as the English would say.
Everyone in the village knew each other, and the local pub seemed to be like a defacto community hall or gathering place.
Like the missus says, "Its all this damn technology, that is speeding us up."
"Ya got to admit Moe, those little Frenchy rolls are pretty good, like the ones they have in WalMart.
PJ| 10.8.10 @ 7:43AM
"...the men's (Americans) "adolescent obsession with breasts and bottoms." The French, he maintained, have long outgrown such obsessions....
Baloney!!!
JP| 10.8.10 @ 3:39PM
It appear that the French men prefer androngynous looking women. If one considers that the birthrate in France (outside of Muslims) is about 1.5 per female, one can conclude there is probably a lot less fornication and adultery than is advertised. The French are probably too bored to put up the effort. So much for" La grand passion."
PJ| 10.8.10 @ 9:18PM
The French women I saw when traveling in their country had curvy but slender figures.
All normal men no matter where they're from including France, want the same thing---- if you get my meaning.
drudge ette obama| 10.8.10 @ 7:50AM
Are you writing about a France of another time? Or the France which bans headscarves and which will soon outlaw lardons? Or the France where there are entire neighborhoods in which no one dares to venture? Or the France that has riots. Where the average woman washes her foundation once a year?
Your article rates 10 on the smug scale. Bon chance.
Ken (Old Texican)| 10.8.10 @ 8:38AM
drudge ette,
This is one writer I merely skim-read. He ain't worth the time.
drudge ette obama| 10.9.10 @ 7:46AM
I would not have enjoyed this occasion, but it is humorous to read this writer's account because he takes this so seriously.
Matt morehouse| 10.8.10 @ 10:29AM
A haughty piece by a haughty writer about ersatz haute cuisine and culture.
Pepe| 10.8.10 @ 10:47AM
English food is fine if you eat at an Indian Resturant.I do like Cornish Pasties,Devenshire clotted cream, and Scotch cut roast boef.
Once you get past frogs and snails, french food is tasty, especially French Bread and croissants.
A keilbassa in a croissant is heaven. I don't know why,but I've found the French and Brits friendly and helpful.(You have to know whom and how to ask) Generally, for food friendlyness and fun, nothing beats Italy.
Albert| 10.8.10 @ 11:03AM
I guess I'm not one to be obsessed with everything French. I really don't think most Americans care that much about French culture or cuisine either. For each French restaurant that I hear about in these parts, there are dozens of Italian restaurants that I actually see. And they are usually very busy.
Vern Crisler | 10.8.10 @ 1:20PM
This article puts me in mind of something Mark Twain said:
"God created man a little lower than the angels -- and a little higher than the French."
dac| 10.8.10 @ 1:41PM
Bizzare, elitist garbage, but typical sludge from someone who has spent way, way too much time in Boston.
Let's cut to the chase: French wine is vastly, absurdly overrated and overpriced. You can get wine of equal or better quality at fractions of the price from California, Italy, Spain, New Zealand, Australia, Chile, Portugal, Argentina, and even South Africa.
French food is shit unless you consider clever, nuanced sauces a meal. They couldn't cook a steak to save their lives. The bread is pretty good, but again, you can get good bread in a lot of places from a lot of countries.
English food, I'm not even sure what that is. I love beer and pubs, and if the beer is good and the food is simple and unpretentious it is likely going to do the job. In my limited experience the best of the UK and Ireland is, well, Ireland. Best beer, best food. Best whiskey goes to Scotland. The French don't even play in these leagues. Irish bacon is the best on the planet.
There are two--only two--things the French do better than Americans: nuclear power and rugby. That is it. Not insignificant, but utterly irrelevant to the elitist, faux-haute trash peddled by the article's author.
Paul D| 10.8.10 @ 3:17PM
Rugby?
AFA| 10.12.10 @ 5:53AM
When you talk
AFA| 10.12.10 @ 5:56AM
When you talk about French wine or food, you have to go in the RIGHT places, to appreciate, not in tourist traps or supermarkets. Most of foreign wines are shabby imitations of true vintage French wines. Again, the same stupidities coming from a jealous jerk.
Anommynous| 10.8.10 @ 1:51PM
Mr. Johnson, do you agree with the pro-adultery sentiment that your article ascribes to the French patrons? That adultery actually *saves* marriages? Because you surely don't seem to condemn this line of reasoning. Please excuse me for a second while I puke.
Okay, that's better. If adultery is so good for marriage, then why is Tiger Woods now divorced? He participated in lots of adultery, so he should have had a very healthy marriage, indeed, correct? No, I despise male pigs who cheat on their wives, and I detest the rationalizations that some people devise to justify that behavior.
Look, I love French culture. I quite enjoyed the recent article on Quebec written for this magazine by G. Tracy Mehan, III. Your article, on the other hand, is nothing but detrimental to my perception of the French people and culture. If that was your intention, then good job.
Purple Lips| 10.8.10 @ 3:46PM
"Okay, that's better. If adultery is so good for marriage, then why is Tiger Woods now divorced?"
I don't know about Tiger Woods, but adultery did wonders for the English - it gave them the Church of England.
I always liked the Normandy. If there was anywhere I could live, it would be there. Or perhaps Guernsey.
Joe Y| 10.8.10 @ 3:35PM
These comments are ridiculous. This is a light-hearted, tongue-wedged-firmly-in-cheek article, and if the last line about the English were any more ironic, it would rust.
For those who have seen it, do you remember the last line of "Blazing Saddles?" After an uplifting, inspiring univeral declaration of brotherly love, everyone vows to live together peacefully in their newly rebuilt town. They conclude, in unanimous agreement, with one final promise, "No Irish!"
Pat| 10.8.10 @ 3:52PM
What is it with food, France and Americans on the east coast? Folks from the east are overly preoccupied with France, alternately criticizing or defending it – while the rest of us yawn in blissful ignorance. Does this preoccupation stem from a liberal mindset? Or perhaps a perpetual inferiority complex brought on by a high population density? All over our beautiful country, outside the east coast that is, Americans enjoy a wide variety of food, they drink California wines in preference to the high priced, inferior sewage the French allow the east coasters to import and we can go years without noticing the absence of local bistros and other cutesy imitators of French restaurants. East coasters are stubbornly fixated on France, and to a lesser extent Europe, as the fountainhead of all modern culture. Perhaps it’s because their decaying eastern cities are coming to resemble European cities to a greater extent as the years go by - or perhaps they still believe Americans living in the heartland remain untutored hicks eating catfish and grits 3 times a day.
But maybe for us hicks that’s really a blessing in disguise. New Yorkers and Bostonians are welcome to enjoy their frequent pilgrimages to France where they can soak up the latest cultural pronouncements and then return home to bore the rest of us. And with their 900 year water shortage, the French have only a casual acquaintance with soap and water, smell like a dead goat on the best of days and which probably accounts for their expertise in concocting perfumes. So, very possibly, it’s fortunate we can send the east coast folks to mingle with the French in our stead, better them than us. And anyone who’s suffered through a New England boiled dinner or codfish chowder can appreciate the East Coast’s fascination with French food.
PJ| 10.8.10 @ 9:01PM
True, there are some people who idolize Europe culture (specifically English & French) to the extreme.
Yet, if one truly understands western culture, which BTW the rest of the world tries to imitate, then one needs to learn about its history. France was at one point the dominate force in art, cuisine, power, & Christianity.
To appreciate the origins of the USA, one must understand western European history which includes their culture. To say otherwise is to be ignorant.
Harold Hyman| 10.9.10 @ 8:06AM
En fait, les observations d'un tel aussi miope que celui-ci au sujet des anglais ne peuvent qu'etre douteuses; l'on pourrait dire aussi facilement que sous les gesticulations et belles phrases de chez nous gissent un desert d'ennui et d'impuissance, tandis que sous le flegme anglais brule une passion qui s'exprime lorsqu'il le faut, que ce soit a table, dans le boudoir, ou sur le champ de bataille. Ou les francais, par contre... mais enfin.
jack coor| 1.25.11 @ 4:56AM
I hope that Boston French banquet had for background music some youtube piped in music from the golden age of French Song--the 30s and 40s, when Frehel, young Piaf, Sablon, Delyle, Gauty et al were raising popular song to the heights. Yes, I know, over here we had Ella, Billie, Crosby, Columbo, and Vallee, and Lee Morse, but via youtube I have discovered War2-era French pop music, and am hooked on the stuff. Them people did sing real good.
Adult toys | 7.4.11 @ 3:41AM
three drunk friends made a bet whoever can make their wives scream the longest during sex win 1000.next day when they met.
first guy:I made love to my wife 2.5hours and she screaming for 1.5hours;
second guy:I licked my wife for 2hours and she was screaming whole time and even 1/2hour after I was done;
third guy:that’s nothing,I made love to my wife 10mins and I came twice,wipe my dick on the curtain and my wife still screming at me up to now!