By Bill Croke on 8.28.07 @ 12:07AM
If you're in Cody, there's only one person to see.
CODY, Wy. -- Even in the remote reaches of northwest Wyoming I
am not immune from visits by fellow TAS contributors. For
the past few summers I can count on two in particular to blow into
Cody on the prairie breeze: Happy Jack Feder and Reid Collins.
Reid quits his baronial digs in an undisclosed location in
Montana one day each summer and motors a few hours to Cody, a town
he's actually been personally familiar with since childhood family
Yellowstone trips. He likes the Irma Hotel, "Buffalo Bill's Hotel
in the Rockies," a century old, and displaying some of the
Plainsman's memorabilia, much Cody history, and, well, some of the
most marginal food in town. And here we go to lunch.
Reid's silver haired ex-Washington correspondent's urbanity
belies the fact that he is definitely a blue-plate-special kind of
guy. It is as if the Irma cooks somehow know that he is in town,
and they stock up on soggy meatloaf and pasty mashed potatoes for
that day's lunch special. I usually order a buffalo burger because
the Irma kitchen does a fair job of not screwing them up.
So we sit in the shabbily genteel and ornate dining room looking
at the elk antler chandeliers, the buffalo, moose and deer heads on
the walls, and the wine-colored cherrywood bar that was a gift of
Queen Victoria to Buffalo Bill. I tell Reid it was given in return
for sexual favors, and being a great reporter he doesn't believe
this. He orders his lunch in his buttery newsman's voice, flirting
with the matronly waitress, who calls him "honey," and he finds
this charming. I don't have the heart to tell him that in
politically incorrect Wyoming all waitresses of a certain age call
all their male customers "honey."
The conversation over lunch is varied, but mostly consists of
talking shop, specifically concerning the Inside-the-Beltway
political-media world from which I am two thousand miles removed. I
get the impression that Washington is a bit like Hell, in that it's
hot in summer, gray cold in winter, and no matter the season
everybody hates everybody else. There's howling shrieks and the
gnashing of teeth and daily editorials in the Post. I tell
Reid that like a Dantesque pilgrim I would like to visit, as long
as I could leave in relatively short order.
Friends of mine pass our table and I introduce Reid as "Reid
Collins: CBS News," as if he's signing off a broadcast. He is
annoyed by this, but soon brightens when our waitress returns.
"How's the meatloaf, honey?" she asks. "Are you wantin'
coffee?"
HAPPY JACK FEDER CAME TO TOWN recently, and the dust has just
settled. His latest entrepreneurial shtick (besides freelance
writing and a screenplay-in-progress) is digital photography of
Rocky Mountain scenery panoramas put onto elongated poster board
(they're actually very professionally done) and hustled to tourist
town shops on consignment or personally at summertime craft fairs,
music festivals, etc. He's been on the road a lot lately. A
Kerouackian Willy Loman driving a beater Toyota with almost as much
mileage on it as Apollo 11.
Anyway, after one such fair in Big Sky, Montana, Happy Jack
showed up in Cody late at night and found his way to the familiar
oasis of my apartment on Alger Avenue. We had our usual bear-hug
reunion (he lives in Helena, Montana, and I hadn't seen him in a
year), and he rolled out his inflatable mat and sleeping bag on the
"living room" (I have what can best be described as a studio
apartment. The living room is also the kitchen and bedroom,
depending on where you're standing. My kitchen table is also my
desk. You get the idea) floor, and was soon snoring like a chainsaw
in need of a timing adjustment.
Living at close quarters with Happy Jack for a few days is an
adventure, kind of like summer camp sans poison ivy (there is none
in Wyoming). When he shows up, he tends physically to take over, as
duffel bag, knapsack, clothes and sleeping bag pile up in odd
corners, of which there aren't many. When this occurs, my domicile
starts to morph into what I call "Camp Happy Jack." And Camp Happy
Jack is not for the faint of heart.
The floor is littered with laundry and reading matter: socks,
underwear, newspapers, magazines, his screenplay-in-progress, and
anything that I've written lately that I've shown him. I once
chatted on the phone with his saintly wife Kathy about all this,
and came away from the conversation with one quote from her that
stuck in my mind: "Bill, I've been picking up his socks and
underwear for 22 years."
Happy Jack is a big guy and tends to be a bit heavy-handed:
furniture is jostled, drinks are spilled, and when he opens the
curtains the rod hooks are loosened from their moorings. He's what
my mother has always called "a bull in a china shop."
On the first morning after his arrival, Happy Jack broke the
toilet. He did this by simply flushing it. He came out of the
bathroom resuming his train-of-thought monologue (I can't recall
what it was about), and despite it I could hear a rushing sound
like a mountain stream coming from the bathroom.
"What's that sound?" I asked.
"What sound?"
I went into the bathroom. "What did you do to the toilet,
Happy?"
"Nuthin'."
I took the top of the tank off, and inside it was a noisy,
storm-tossed sea. I swore an oath, as they used to say.
"What did you do, Happy?" I demanded.
"Nuthin'," he said, exasperated. "I just flushed it."
I'm not a plumber, so don't ask me how I fixed it, but I did. A
little blue rubber hose had popped out of a metal tube, and there
was a loose clamp attached to the tube. Water was shooting out of
the end of the wayward hose. I clamped the end of the hose to the
end of the metal tube, thus directing the water back into the tube,
and the storm-tossed sea was instantly becalmed. I did a test flush
and everything worked correctly.
"Don't touch my laptop," I said, menacingly.
Later, I put a note on the bathroom door as a reminder. It read:
"Happy, Flush Gently."
THIS WAS ALSO A SUNDAY, and I'd gone out earlier to get the papers.
I like to read the papers over breakfast on Sunday morning. If this
is just another neurotic tic, it's one I share with scores of
millions of my fellow Americans. Happy Jack could care less, but if
the papers happen to be lying around, he'll read them. And talk
about interesting news or commentary that catches his eye. It's:
"Listen to this," and "Look at that," and "Check it out."
Initially, I thought that if I kept passing him sections of the
paper, he'd shut up and read, and I -- in turn -- could read in
peace. No such luck.
He's always losing things. His car keys, reading and sunglasses,
and articles of clothing. This usually leads to the emptying of his
knapsack and duffel bag onto the floor until the missing item is
found. Sometimes he leaves things behind when he leaves. But the
day does come when he does leave.
We have another bear hug by the car, and last minute farewells
as he starts it. The Toyota rattles off down Alger Avenue and I
stand on the lawn waving goodbye to my old friend. Then I go back
inside and before I start the cleanup I lie on my bed and stare at
the ceiling and heave a sigh of relief. Another summertime sojourn
at Camp Happy Jack has concluded.
I cherish both these friends, and picking a favorite would be
difficult. But three facts are clear: Reid never stays overnight,
always buys lunch, and has never broken my toilet.
topics:
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