By Marina Malenic on 8.11.03 @ 1:04AM
Every aristocrat is welcome where Liz Taylor and Richard Burton once cavorted -- except Arnold Schwarzenegger.
PULA, Croatia -- Just off the Istrian Coast of what is now
Croatia, the Brijuni islands were once the playground of
Austria-Hungary's royalty. Hapsburg princes cavorted on the islands
after inspecting their fleet in Pula, the Empire's main military
port after Napoleon's army was ousted from the area in 1815. In
that year the Treaty of Vienna allowed the Hapsburgs to revive the
northern Adriatic Coast, their rule extending from Venice through
Istria and Dalmatia down to Albania.
Pula had a fairly sound infrastructure even before the Hapsburgs
moved in -- the Romans, Goths, Byzantines, the Acquilean
Patriarchs, Venetians and Napoleon all contributed to the growth of
the port in some measure upon conquest. But the Austrians perfected
it. They filled up marshes, built a modern sewage system and stone
piers along the bay, and neatly arranged parks and trees and town
squares. And thanks to the physician Albert Koch, they also managed
to eradicate malaria from the Brijuni Islands, making the
archipelago safe for aristocrats of generations to come.
Including Hollywood royalty and Communist dictators. When
Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were guests of the former
Yugoslav dictator Josip Broz Tito in 1974, they were treated to a
getaway on the islands, then Tito's private hideaway and nature
preserve. Like most of Tito's guests, they went on a safari on the
main island to get a closer look at some of his exotic pets --
among them a pair of elephants, a gift from Indira Gandhi.
Taylor and Burton also attended the Pula Film Festival just
after Burton played the role of Tito as a young Communist army
officer during the waning days of WWII in the film
Sutjeska (The Fifth Offensive), a romantic
account of the Communist victory over fascist forces in what would
become Yugoslavia. The brainchild of Tito himself, the festival was
instituted in 1953, and this year celebrated its 50th
anniversary.
Marshall Tito's filmophilia is well known. In this year's
documentary retrospective of the festival, a Serbian director
remarks that when the dictator of Yugoslavia was finished dictating
-- somewhere around 6 p.m. every evening -- he needed something to
occupy his time. And so he turned to the silver screen. Hollywood
in turn had a soft spot for the dictator, as year after year actors
and directors paraded through Pula.
Indeed, Tito has always been a hero to many who kept the
socialist faith, throughout the Cold War and even beyond. By
defying the Soviets and then becoming one of the architects of the
nonaligned movement (that group of poor, Third-World countries
whose people had no cake, and didn't get to eat it, either), Tito
became something of a cult figure. This was kinder, gentler
Communism. Communism with a human face. Compassionate
Communism.
But the internal reality of Yugoslavia was a stark contrast to
this romanticized notion of Titoism. Like the Soviets, the Yugoslav
Communist Party had its own purges -- though, granted, never on a
Stalinist scale -- eliminating various ideological undesirables. In
the economic realm, Tito's "socialist self-management" simply ran
Yugoslavia into the ground financially -- this in a country rich in
natural resources, with the Adriatic Coast a potential goldmine in
terms of shipping, fisheries, and tourism.
And so Yugoslavia became synonymous with dinginess and socialist
stagnation. While Tito and Hollywood stars vacationed on the
Adriatic, ordinary citizens in Yugoslavia endured both unemployment
and inflation in double digits. And this while Tito railed against
the true enemies of the state -- materialism and capitalism,
Coca-Cola and Levi's -- both of which, along with all other Western
products, it was impossible to purchase in Yugoslavia during Tito's
rule.
But in Pula, year after year the Western celebrities saw an
enlightened, cultured, benevolent dictator. And the movie stars
continue to come, some for nothing other than to enjoy the sun and
the sea air and to catch a glimpse of Vespasian's amphitheater, the
Roman arena where films are screened during the festival. But
unlike the celebrities of old, those who attend today cannot be
fooled into thinking that Tito is responsible for any of these
things.
THIS YEAR'S HEADLINERS WERE the actors John Malkovich and Jeremy
Irons. Irons gave a press conference in which he lamented the state
of the film industry. While on the one hand disparaging the
commercialism and lack of artistic value of special effects-laden
American films, he also acknowledged that "there are films being
made in Europe -- I know having been on juries [at festivals] --
that are so boring, it is absolute purgatory."
Nonetheless, he is proud that the European film industry "is not
about money." His greatest caveat to festival organizers? "If you
start to include commercial actors like Arnold Schwarzenegger, you
will destroy it. The worst thing you could do would be to turn it
into a total marketplace."
In his diatribe against the Hollywood movie, he quite aptly
likened it to "a prostitute... who always looks great, does
everything you want... and then you forget about her right
afterward." As opposed to a "good film that is like a real woman,
who isn't all that tarted up, who very likely doesn't do everything
you want. But after a night with her you can't get her out of your
mind."
But were his view of the industry implemented, would we not end
up with something akin to Yugoslavia's socialist stagnation --
where the women were lovely, but where none of the stores sold
Western products like hair remover or deodorant?
Perhaps this takes his brilliant analogy a step too far, but it
is worth remembering that film can be art, but that it is also
entertainment. And yes, there are negative aspects to every
entertainment industry (long before Tito served his audiences films
glorifying the state in Vespasian's amphitheater, the Romans fed
their own masses there with bloodsport).
Mass culture will never suit all palates, of that we can be
certain. And for those with more discerning tastes, there are good
films made every year on both sides of the Atlantic. But the answer
is not to prevent the market from functioning, from denying people
the entertainment they are capable of enjoying.
If what we want is the return of Kultur on a grand scale, the
only way to achieve it will be through an authoritarian system of
some kind. Perhaps Mr. Irons would care to lead a Hapsburg
restoration, starting in their very military port of Pula. But
until that glorious day arrives, the film industry will always have
a place for Arnold.
topics:
Hollywood, Military, Communism